1 Babington's Tea Rooms and Caffe Greco Tea or coffee? Why not have both by visiting Babington's Tea Rooms and Caffe Greco, both near the Spanish Steps. Babington's was founded in the 1890s and has since become a restaurant, as well as a homely tea room. It serves 25 varieties of tea, prepared specially by Woodham's of London. Among the illustrious to have dropped in for a cuppa are Ingrid Bergman, the Italian royal family and Caroline of Monaco. In winter, there's a roaring fireplace (Piazza di Spagna 23, tel: [39] 06 678 6027). Caffe Greco, open since the 18th century, is a more formal affair, with waiters in evening dress serving cakes and sandwiches to nibble with drinks. It's worth a visit simply for the walk through history. The walls are covered with photographs, sketches and documents of the famous who have frequented it: Buffalo Bill, Byron, Shelley, Mark Twain, Henry James, Baudelaire, Mendelssohn, Bizet, Liszt and Wagner, to name a few - although the coffee is excellent too (Via dei Condotti 86, tel: [39] 06 679 1700). 2 New Rome As you leave central Termini railway station, the zone to the left is new Rome, a multi-ethnic farrago, with musical performances often enlivening the central Piazza Vittoria. There are large Chinese general stores, herbal shops and restaurants such as the inexpensive Hang Zhou, specialising in Beijing and Sichuan fare, whose speciality fish dishes have featured on Italian TV (Via San Martino ai Monti 33C, tel: [39] 06 487 2732). At Piazza Dante 23 is the Syrian-Lebanese restaurant Zenobia (tel: [39] 06 7049 0488), run by an archaeologist, which features belly dancing on Friday and Saturday nights. At Via Merulana 221 you'll find the Egyptian Shawarma Station (tel: [39] 06 488 1216), which serves great kebabs and a good variety of couscous. Little India and Little Bangladesh centres on the Via Turati market, and the best tandoori can found at Himalayas Kashmir at Via Principe Amedeo 325 (tel: [39] 06 446 1072). The Aquario, a handsome, early 19th-century former aquarium, is surrounded by African food stalls and shops selling fabrics and knick-knacks. 3 The Pope Pope John Paul used to visit his followers worldwide, but because of his fragility, now doesn't move far beyond Rome. Every Sunday at noon he appears at his study window, high above St Peter's Square, to give a blessing. Bring binoculars for a close-up view. He can also be seen on Wednesday mornings when he gives a general audience, either in the square or a nearby hall, but tickets are needed for both. To obtain a ticket for a papal audience, fax the Prefettura della Casa Pontificia on [39] 06 6988 5863 not more than a month and not less than two days in advance, specifying your name, home address, Rome address, the date you want the ticket and whether you want to attend a general audience or Mass (tel: [39] 06 6988 3273). If you're part of a group, the name of only one member should be given, plus the number in your group and the language spoken. If tickets are available, they can be picked up at the Bronze Door of the Vatican a couple of days before the audience. 4 Sistine Chapel After thorough restoration work in recent decades, the Sistine is now pristine, with its colours almost poster-like in their luminosity. To avoid a crick in the neck, bring a small mirror so you can study the ceiling without craning all the time. The Vatican Museums, of which the Sistine Chapel is part, is a vast complex with kilometres of art collections (such as the wondrous Raphael Rooms). Get there at opening time for an opportunity to see it all (admission: Euro12 [HK$115], free entrance on the last Sunday of every month. Visit http://mv.vatican.va for opening hours). 5 Nero's Palace The archaeological zone at the heart of Rome, from the Campidoglio (Town Hall) to the Colosseum, is so vast it merits several visits. Also worth a visit are two sites nearby that show how people lived when not promenading in the Forums or attending gladiatorial shows in the Colosseum. On Oppio Hill, on the left of the Colosseum as you approach it from the Forums, is Emperor Nero's Palace. Also known as the Golden House or Domus Aurea, it features myriad state rooms, statuary and large frescos of ancient cities (admission: Euro5. Open daily except Tuesdays. Booking necessary, tel: [39] 06 3996 7700). On Celio Hill on the opposite side of the Colosseum, beneath the beautiful fourth-century Santi Giovanni e Paolo church, the remains of several fresco-covered Roman houses give an idea of the domestic life of the times (admission: free. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays). 6 Via Condotti This is Rome's premier shopping street, lined with swish labels such as Prada, Gucci, Bulgari and Valentino. Salvatore Ferragamo has two shoe shops on the street (numbers 66 and 73-74), where the latest designs are regularly photographed by spies wanting to copy them. In the courtyard at number 61 is Battistoni, which has long been known for its shirts, but has widened its range and space to include all types of clothing for men and women. Composer Leonard Bernstein was a regular client. Fans include Richard Gere, Tony Curtis, Martin Scorsese, Francis Ford Coppola and Placido Domingo. The parallel Via Borgognona is equally top-end, with branches of Fendi, Versace and Moschino. The more budget-minded should head to Via del Corso, which runs at the end of Condotti and Borgognona, where prices drop considerably. 7 Caravaggio crawl Caravaggio's dramatic paintings are more accessible in Rome than anywhere else, and admirers of his work should consider a Caravaggio crawl. Begin at his great fresco The Calling of Saint Matthew in San Luigi dei Francesi church, then head for his Madonna of the Pilgrims in the nearby Church of San Agostino. Return to Via della Scrofa, which leads to the spacious Piazza del Popolo, where the main church houses two Caravaggios: Crucifixion of St Peter and Conversion of St Paul. Finally, a walk through the Borghese Gardens near the church takes you to the Borghese Gallery, which features a further three Caravaggio pieces (admission: Euro6.5. Closed Mondays. Booking essential, tel: [39] 06 32810, www.galleriaborghese.it ). 8 The Basilica of San Clemente This church on Via Labicana (which begins at the Colosseum) is a complex honeycomb of history. At street level is a 12th-century church, from which steps lead down to a fourth-century church. Still further down are the remains of a first-century Roman house and a temple to the pagan god Mithras, whose cult was brought back from the Middle East by the Roman legionnaires. Below the Mithraic temple can be heard the rushing waters of the Cloaca Maxima, the sewer built by the pre-Roman Etruscans that still debouches into the Tiber (admission: Euro3. Closed Mondays). 9 Otello alla Concordia and Gusto Located in the food shop street of Via della Croce, Otello alla Concordia is a pleasant eatery comprising three sections: a trattoria, a more modern restaurant, and, best of all, a glassed-in area in the courtyard featuring a fountain, foliage, an inviting display of food and an agreeable atmosphere. It does the Roman speciality of lamb in various ways, and serves ample portions, and its prices are reasonable (tel: [39] 06 679 1178). Gusto in Piazza Augusto Imperatore is an expansive two-storey open-plan complex with a restaurant, pizzeria, wine bar, trattoria, cheese bar and shop stocking cookbooks and utensils. It faces the mausoleum of the Roman emperor Augustus, and the black and white decor with unfaced brick walls and wooden beams gives it a 19th-century craftsman-shop air. Scenesters go for the atmosphere, food and music - often soul and jazz. Specialities include onion quiche with balsamic ice cream, and it does a good brunch at weekends (tel: [39] 06 322 6273). 10 Trastevere Downstream from the Vatican, Trastevere is Rome's equivalent of the Left Bank. The narrow streets are packed with small theatres, art-house cinemas, craft workshops, bars and restaurants. It features Rome's only English-language cinema - Pasquino - and two English-language bookshops, the Almost Corner and Open Door, which deals in second-hand titles. The central point is the magnificent Santa Maria Basilica, whose decorated facade can be admired while seated opposite at the pleasant, if pricey, De Mario coffee bar. Gauguin, on Via del Moro, is a comfortable coffee bar with good snacks attended by a youngish crowd. The Corsini Palace has a fine art collection. Behind it is the Botanic Gardens. Janiculum Hill, above, provides a superb view of Rome.
