1 Classical Thai dance In ancient Siam, classical Thai dance, or khon, was for VIPs only. Happily, these 'masked dance-dramas' are now open to the hoi polloi. The best venue to catch khon is the National Theatre, where for two vibrant hours you can boo dastardly demons and hurrah heroic gods (shows held on last Friday and Saturday of each month, Na Phra That Rd, tel: [66] 2221 5861). Don't fret if you can't get to the National Theatre: many of Bangkok's better restaurants offer a serve of khon. The pick of the bunch is Sala Rim Naam at the Oriental Bangkok (48 Oriental Ave, tel: [66] 2659 9000, www.mandarin-oriental.com/bangkok ). If you're on a backpacker's budget, visit Erawan Shrine for a free helping (Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Rd, tel: [66] 2254 1234, www.bangkok.hyatt.com ). 2 Muay thai boxing Thais are genteel folks - until you get them inside a kickboxing stadium. A night at the fights is really two shows in one. Inside the ring, there's a dazzling donnybrook of feet, fists, knees and elbows. Outside, spectators bob and weave like Charlie Chaplins in a slapstick masterpiece. All of this is accompanied by a three-piece orchestra. There are two prime locations: Ratchadamnoen Stadium every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday (Ratchadamnoen Nok Ave, tel: [66] 2281 4205), or Lumpini Stadium every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday (Rama IV Rd, tel: [66] 2251 4303). Both venues kick-off about 6pm, and tickets range from 220 baht to 1,000 baht (HK$43 to HK$197). 3 Rattanakosin Island Everyone who goes to Bangkok visits the Grand Palace, but this is one instance of popular opinion getting it absolutely right. It's a golden wonderland of spires and glittering shrines. The jewel in the crown is Wat Phra Kaew, Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the holiest edifice in the kingdom (Na Phra Lan Rd). The area surrounding the Grand Palace, known as Rattanakosin Island or Old Bangkok, is sprinkled with stunning sights. Jump on the Bangkok Tourist Bureau's trolley bus (the terminal is on Na Phra Lan Road, in front of the palace) for a half-hour, guided tour of the beauty spots. Then, return to whatever caught your eye and peruse at your own pace. Just be sure to leave a few hours for Wat Pho and its famous 46-metre reclining Buddha (Chetuphon Rd). 4 Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha) At times, Wat Traimit gets overrun with tourists, but sharpen those elbows because this is one wat you definitely want to explore. How does a three-metre-tall, five-and-a-half ton, solid gold Buddha strike you? That's right, solid gold. The statue is some 700 years old, and for much of its history, it was thought to be a plaster Buddha. Then, 40 years ago, a crane operator dropped the statue while trying to move it. When the surface cracked, a heart of gold was revealed. Scholars say the image was covered up a few centuries ago to hide it from Burmese invaders (Yaowarat Rd). 5 Silom Road If you want to let down your hair and raise the roof, this is the place. There are restaurants, clubs, pubs and everything in between. Mango Tree Restaurant is a personal favourite (37 Soi Tantawan, tel: [66] 2236 2820, www.coca.com/mango-tree ), but there are hundreds of great eateries, offering every type of cuisine. For pub fun, go to Shenanigans (1/5-6 Soi Convent, tel: [66] 2266 7160, www.shenanigans-bangkok.com ). Clubbers can get their groove on at Speed (80 Soi 4, tel: [66] 1423 5634). Killer cocktails? Try Home (114/14 Soi 4, tel: [66] 2238 5257). And now to Soi Patpong. Its reputation is somewhat over-hyped. Sure, there's plenty of jaw-dropping mischief, but there's also an excellent night market, and you'll find many solid citizens buzzing around. If you want to go go-go, the Fire Cat Bar might be worth a peek (Soi Patpong 1). 6 Banyan Tree Spa For a soothing pick-me-up after that big night out, look no further than the Banyan Tree Spa, recently voted equal best in Bangkok (with The Oriental's spa) in the Conde Nast Traveller Spa Awards 2004. Flop in for a few hours of blissful wraps 'n' rubs, or make a day of it. Let the age-old healing arts of Siam work their magic, or try the Balinese boreh or Hawaiian lomi lomi. If you want to get really fancy, book a suite and stay a couple of nights. (51/F-54/F Thai Wah Tower II, Sathorn Rd, tel: [66] 2679 1052, www.banyantreespa.com/bangkok ). 7 Baan Khanitha restaurant This award-winning restaurant specialises in so-called royal Thai cuisine - that is, food fit for a king. The yam som-o (sweet, sour and spicy pomelo salad) is a festival for your tastebuds, and the boo nim pad pong garee (curried soft-shell crab) is a must. Baan Khanitha is also affordable, with most dishes priced around 190 baht. Reservations necessary (36/1 Soi 23, Sukhumvit Rd, tel: [66] 2258 4181, plus a branch at 49 Soi Ruamrudee 2, Ploenchit Rd, tel: [66] 2253 4638). 8 Manohra Cruises The Manohra was a rice barge, but it's been reborn as a swanky teak vessel offering lunch, dinner and cocktail cruises on the mighty Chao Phraya, 'The River of Kings'. The food is wonderful, with the likes of grilled lobster with lemon-grass butter and tamarind sauce. You'll also feast on such sights as the Grand Palace, Temple of Dawn and the Royal Barges Boathouse, not to mention Bangkok's glowing skyline. The Manohra and its sister ship, Manohra Moon, are moored at the Bangkok Marriott Resort pier (257 Charoen Nakhon Rd). Dinner cruises depart nightly at 7.30pm and cost 1,400 baht or HK$276 (tel: [66] 2476 0022, www.manohracruises.com ). 9 Mahboonkrong Shopping Centre In the heart of Bangkok, the Mahboonkrong (or MBK) is a must for shopaholics. On the surface, it's a modern, air-conditioned mall, with the requisite department stores, food courts, cinemas and so forth. What sets MBK apart are the hundreds of stalls crammed into every cranny. You'll be tripping over bargains. Clothes, cosmetics, electronics, souvenirs, oil paintings - you name it, they've got it, and the price is always right. If there's still thread on your soles, check out Siam Square across the road for more shopping adventures. To get to MBK, leg it to your nearest SkyTrain terminal and head for National Stadium station (444 Phayathai Rd). 10 Ayutthaya How thoughtful of those ancient Siamese rulers. Not only did they build one of the finest cities in medieval Asia, but they located it just 76km north of Bangkok. Ayutthaya Historical Park is one of Thailand's premier attractions, and is World Heritage-listed. Discover time-ravaged temples and palaces, top-notch museums, elephant rides and even a martial arts monastery (Wat Phutthaisawan, just south of the Historical Park, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River). The easiest way to get there is by rail. Trains leave Bangkok's main terminal, Hua Lampong station (Rama IV Rd, tel: [66] 2223 7020), every hour. Return fare is 70 baht, and the trip takes 90 minutes.
