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Gown under

Carmen Li

YOU'VE GOT TO give it credit. Despite the remote location and a seasonal inversion that puts it at odds with the rest of the fashion world, Australian Fashion Week is continuing its quest to become the region's style hub. More than 90 designers, including contingents from Malaysia, Singapore and Hong Kong, showed their spring/summer 2005 collections at Sydney's Circular Quay last week, kicking off a circuit that will continue in New York, London, Milan and Paris in September.

'We're trying to position Australian Fashion Week as one of the most important fashion events in Asia Pacific,' says Simon Lock, chief executive of Australian Fashion Innovators, which organises and produces the bi-annual show. 'I'd like to think that we've made significant progress over the past nine years. We've developed a reputation as one of the world's most valuable sources for up-and-coming talents, and we have 300 buyers this season. Hong Kong is a very important market for us, and the feedback from the Asian shows has been positive. We plan to invite countries such a Thailand to attend next year.'

The sun-drenched week opened with Australian Lisa Ho's delicate collection, which sent her fans swooning with delight. Drawing inspiration from Peggy Guggenheim, Ho created a variety of boldly printed gowns in splashes of emerald, cherry, violets and subtle metallics. 'Peggy Guggenheim has always been my muse,' says Ho. 'I just wanted to design evening dresses and cocktail wear for women on a night out and at the races.'

At Sydney University, another local favourite, Akira Isogawa, presented a lyrical, far eastern inspired collection, which included sculptured skirts and exquisitely beaded separates, done in a Hindu palette of creamy oyster and rustic saffron. Models promenaded like tribal princesses. The Japanese designer also teamed up with T-shirt company Bonds to produce beaded cotton singlets. 'I was inspired by textiles and fabrics this season,' says Isogawa. 'I was travelling around the world, and I found some vintage textiles in Paris.'

Wayne Cooper steered clear of ostentatious theatrics and opted for a subdued ambience this season. Set against the backdrop of the Opera House, with a live band singing Frank Sinatra tunes, models sashayed down a mirror runway in sun-ray pleated prom dresses, done in delicious sorbet colours.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, Tasmanian-born designer Alannah Hill presented a flirtatious, Moulin Rouge-like spectacle, with models and dancers gyrating in lithe, racy satin ensembles and dresses sprayed with beads and sparkles. 'I'm a die-hard romantic,' she says. 'The show was all about romance, chocolates and sex.' Anti-fur demonstrators caused a stir outside the venue at the Harbour Pavilion, only to find out that the designer wasn't using fur. 'It's really quite funny,' says Hill. 'I've never used fur in my collections and I never will.'

Designers from Hong Kong exhibited their collections later in the week, and received a positive response from buyers and press.

Now established as one of Australia's favourite after-five designers, Dorian Ho featured his signature beaded tops and satin gowns. Skirts were adorned with delicate feathers, and tassles of beads dripped from cleavage-baring bodices. Fashion is a game where one has to remain commercially sensitive, and Ho, who has four stockists in Australia, appears well informed about his customer base. 'I think Australians have a penchant for sequins, beads and feminine clothes,' he says. 'They're less receptive to edgier designs, and they prefer versatile black and pale pastels. They want to buy clothes they think are worth the money, so it's very important to remain price competitive.'

Doris Lee returned to Sydney for the second time since 2001, and her collection has tuned into the country's romantic style direction. 'Australians want something that's very feminine,' she says. 'They have stuck to this particular style for a long time. I've tried to adapt my collection to the market, and have made things more feminine, with girly trench coats and shimmery tops.'

Henry Lau presented a relaxed, languid collection, featuring billowing oversized off-the-shoulder tops and whimsical pastel-hued cowl-neck chiffon shells, while Ranee Kok came up with barely-there lace cheongsams and vibrantly hued chiffon dresses emblazoned with Chinese motifs. Ruby Li gave skimpy black spaghetti camisoles an athletic edge with striped trimmings, while Emily Cheong remained sweet and sugary, with coquettish ballerina tutus and demure, pristine white capelets.

Overall, the collections shared an uncanny similarity, with numerous designers showing hipster denim, chiffon dresses and beaded gowns. But despite the lack of ingenuity, one has to applaud the designers for having the knack to generate commercial success with their versatile collections.

As a Taiwanese correspondent said after the shows: 'Thighs and cleavage may sell on the runway, but you need to sell clothes on the racks.'

Here are a few of the main trends you'll see in the shops next summer:

Chiffon

Seen on virtually every runway, chiffon will be a staple for the next spring/summer season. Lisa Ho presented a collection of ethereal Grecian gowns printed in micro-leopard patterns and kaleidoscope-inspired pastel washes, while Third Millennium added a touch of street cred to its demure baby doll tops and empire-waist dresses, with raw, distressed hemlines. Dresses were kept gossamer light at Morrissey, as designer Peter Morrissey featured bold prints done in shades of refreshing aqua and citrus greens.

Metallics

Metallics are the palette du jour for Australian designers next summer. Lame silver and iridescent gold are prevalent colours. Rebecca Davies sent her models down the catwalk dressed in head-to-toe white, with slices of silver lame detail, while designer duo Camilla and Mark, as well as local label Mad Cortes, opted for reflective silver at the collars.

Plunging necklines

Shoulders, backs and cleavage seem to be the new erogenous zones, with bare-back halter-tops and navel plunging V-necks replacing last season's derriere-skimming minis. Cooper's models wore Marilyn Monroe-inspired decollete dresses. Alex Perry unveiled a collection of halter-neck, floor-sweeping red-carpet numbers and cleavage-revealing bodices, while Nicola Finetti featured a provocative array of slinky ensembles that skim the body.

Sparks and spangles

Delicate beading and glistening shimmers are the signatures of Australian fashion. Sydney-based Japanese designer Isogawa featured beaded cotton singlets and glistening dresses in canvas and muslin. At Hill's show, models and dancers boogied down the runway in lingerie-inspired ensembles flecked with gleaming sequins and beads, while models at the Rebecca Davies show paraded in slinky white ensembles with crystals and gemstones.

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