The bored saleswoman in the convenience store barely moved her lips. 'No, we do not have feichang (extraordinary) cola. What is wrong with Coke or Pepsi? We have them.'
When feichang cola was launched with much fanfare in June 1998 by the Hangzhou Wahaha Group, China's top maker of soft drinks, it was marketed as the 'national cola' that would beat back the two American goliaths who had invaded the market.
It was to be the Chinese equivalent of Mecca Cola, launched in November 2002 by a French businessman of Tunisian origin, which has sold more than 20 million litres in 30 Muslim countries. 'Chinese want to drink a Chinese cola,' company officials announced proudly at the launch. 'Our taste will be equal to that of Coke and Pepsi, and our drink will cost less. It will be the pride of the Chinese nation, and increase our self-esteem.'
But, since then, things have not gone as hoped. First, the French food giant, Danone, bought a controlling stake in Wahaha - so it is hard to justify the claim that it is a 'national' cola. Second, feichang cola has only a seven per cent share of the Chinese fizzy drink market, compared to Coca-Cola's 24 per cent.
Consumers have been more swayed by Coke's dazzling adverts and nationwide distribution than Wahaha's appeal to patriotism. But at least it has survived, while most Chinese cola brands have gone bankrupt or have been taken over by either Coca-Cola or Pepsi.
Last week, Wahaha announced that it was taking the fight to the big two's home: 170,400 bottles have been shipped to the US, half to Los Angeles and half to New York, to go on the market next month. This will be followed by shipments to other cities. 'It was not us who sought to export, but an American importer who gave us an order,' said a Wahaha official.