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SCMP Reporter

Automotive theme in latest line of sporty timepieces will appeal to motoring enthusiasts

DUNHILL's DESIGNER Tom Bolt is candid about how watches are being marketed  these days.

For example, he believes the sapphire case back has been grossly overused. The transparent case back should be reserved for something truly special, but these days the sapphire case is used in anything with a mechanism inside, he claims.

'I don't believe we should use a sapphire back if the unit isn't special,' said the former founder of online vintage and premium watch specialist WatchGuru.

In terms of value for money, many companies were 'taking advantage' of the public in pricing products, he said. Some watchmakers seize new products and 'wring their necks  till they're dried', he claimed.

'We can't overcharge, and we don't believe we have to because we are here for the long term,' said Mr Bolt, adding that the new Dunhill watch range was reasonably priced at #2,150 (HK$29,554) to #2,900.

He believes the phrase 'limited edition' is often used for watches their manufacturers fear they cannot sell.

While Dunhill will produce only 1,600 pieces each of all new products this year, the company is not saying they are 'limited' in supply.

'We are not calling the watches a limited edition. We hope customers will buy them and find out for themselves and strengthen their faith in the edition.'

Mr Bolt is behind Dunhill's five new product lines this year, two of which carry Dunhill's first two patents. This year's X-Centric model uses the newly patented 'gear stick' crown on the face at six o'clock, which can be activated by unscrewing and sliding the crown down into position, 'as if changing  gears on a high-speed sports car', Mr Bolt said.

(The indicative retail price is between HK$27,750 and $59,995).

Another patent can be found on the new Bobby Finder SP30, which has a sliding bezel that can be rotated to engage two free-sprung chronograph buttons or retracted  into the case as protection from breaking or snagging clothes ($38,095).

The Bobby Finder  is named after a special pair of  binoculars designed by Alfred Dunhill in 1912 to spot 'bobbies',  an old slang term for British policemen (Dunhill was prompted to create the tool after being booked for speeding).

The watch also features a binocular-styled chronograph with a tachymeter function.

The new model is named SP30, after the official term used to mark a driver's licence to denote a traffic offence.

Also cruising along vehicle lines is the Car Watch, which takes its cue from the drive watch of the 1950s, with a profile that resembles a car. The top side of the watch face is slightly elevated.

The idea is to give a magnifying effect to the dial of the top half  for easy time-reading when the watch-wearing hand is on a steering wheel ($25,195 to $27,095). An engraved registration number plate on the front (for either the watch serial number, or letters and number of the users' choice)  enhances the appeal for  motoring enthusiasts.

CityTamer is a dress watch that 'bridges the gap between formality and sport'. As in most dress watches, it does not have a second hand ('because the second hand cheapens a watch').

The City Tamer has a dual gasket design that mirrors the sculpted bonnet of a performance car.

CityFighter, the big brother of CityTamer (with a set of second hands), uses a removable magnification shield as protection for the watch face and magnifies  the inner bezel for precision timekeeping. It comes in buffalo hide or rubber straps, suitable for sports or diving ($25,195 to $58,095 per model).



Dunhill shifts design into top gear