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SCMP Reporter

It took more than 300 years for a key figure in Swiss watchmaking to be honoured with brand-name status

JEANRICHARD IS A YOUNG watch brand with an old name. The brand is based on a real person - Daniel JeanRichard, a goldsmith apprentice who was born in 1665.

Fascinated with the art and science of watchmaking, JeanRichard was among the first to invent machinery to make watch parts. He also spearheaded innovation and the training of watchmakers for decades in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Despite his significant place in the history of Swiss watchmaking, JeanRichard's name did not appear on an international watch brand until the early 1980s, when the Sowind group acquired the Daniel JeanRichard name. The group also owns Girard-Perregaux and watch movement manufacturer Sowind.

When the first JeanRichard watches came out in 1992/93, the collection was not clearly defined by the brand, commercial director Michel Santschi said.

The breakthrough came in 1995/96 with the introduction of the first TV screen watch model, which defined the name and shape of the brand.

In 1998, the JeanRichard timepieces acquired a new descriptive title - chronoscope (chrono for time, scope for watch).

'Rather than presume upon the heritage of JeanRichard, we pay him tribute by reviving his celebrated name,' Mr Santschi said.

JeanRichard is a growing force. It established its presence in Hong Kong in 2000, established its core collection in 2001, and unveiled a new identity this year.

It has also attempted to fast track its development as a serious watchmaker by making its own movement, thanks to its association with Sowind. JR1000 is a newly created automatic mechanical movement featuring a unidirectional rotor with circular Cote de Geneve decor. It comprises 142 components, 32 rubies and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

The new movement is used in the brand's Paramount JR1000  (1,000 pieces in steel and 25  in white gold).

The watches are expected to be available in Hong Kong in September  (HK$30,000 for the steel and $85,000 for the pink gold versions).

Proud to have its own movement, JeanRichard is starting to use a sapphire case back to show it off (something it did not do before its watches were fitted with its own movement).

JeanRichard also this year launched the TV Screen Milady jewellery version, using a subtle play of colours to make it a symbol of femininity. The watch has a mother-of-pearl dial set with precious stones in tones that match the galuchat straps. The pieces come in trendy colours such as lime, violet or fuchsia  ($64,000 for the diamond version, $155,000 for the emerald version).

JeanRichard counts Taiwan, Singapore and Hong Kong among its biggest markets.

According to Mr Santschi, Asia accounts for 40 per cent of the brand's business.

Growing at an annual rate of 15 to 20 per cent, JeanRichard aims to produce 20,000 to 25,000 watches a year by 2010 (60 per cent of the collections for men).



JeanRichard's hour