Instinct is key to choosing the best, said local oenophile Simon Tam, one of two dozen judges at this year's International Wine Challenge of Asia, where 900 vintages are in competition.
The judges will gather at Cyberport today for the final rounds of the three-day competition.
Wines are marked using internationally recognised benchmarks for taste, aroma and other characteristics.
'It all sounds very technical,' said Mr Tam. 'But when you know what you're doing, it becomes instinctive.'
Mr Tam, who was born in Hong Kong and raised in Australia, runs his own wine-consulting service. He has been judging wines in competitions for 11 years.
For this event, organised by the Wine Institute of Asia, he joins 18 judges from Hong Kong and six from overseas.
Vintages from Australia, New Zealand, the mainland, Chile, France and a number of other countries are in competition for a gold, silver or bronze rating, or a seal of approval.