Hunan's hottest chef spices up Zhu's life

When Zhu Rongji was a student in Changsha 50 years ago, one of his hangouts was the Fire Palace Pavilion, which served his favourite snacks of smelly tofu and noodles.

But when he left the Hunan capital on a political journey that would eventually see him being named premier of China, Mr Zhu had to leave behind the tasty treats. Hunan food is so close to Mr Zhu's heart that on the eve of his departure from the State Council, he told the provincial delegation to the National People's Congress to ensure the traditional snacks and culinary skills were saved.

The message was heard and when Mr Zhu returned to Changsha last October, the provincial government asked master Hunanese chef Xu Juyun to cook for him.

Mr Xu said this was the first time in many years that Mr Zhu and his wife had tasted authentic Hunan cuisine - also named Xiang cuisine after the river Xiang - but Mr Zhu made no special requests.

'I know the couple are from Changsha and can take spicy food, but they had been away for so long so I cut down on the chilli and oil,' he said.

'The premier did not say what his favourite dishes were and I did not bother to find out. As a Xiang cuisine chef, I should know my cuisine well and I should be familiar with other cuisines. I must understand my guest so that I can decide the menu.'