Rieslings from Clare Valley
Knappstein 2002, $125
There used to be a railway running through the Clare Valley but it was ripped up years ago. Today, visitors travel along the 27 kilometre Riesling Trail. The gentle slope, ideal for bicycles, passes many of the 40 noted wineries in this lovely area. Pedal under the gum trees and you build up a thirst that draws you into some of the wineries. Many of them have excellent restaurants attached to the cellars. This estate is one of the most renowned in the valley and the 2002 vintage is believed to be one of the best its made. The summer was even drier than normal in this arid region and the small harvest produced wines of exquisite character. There is a wonderful aroma of squeezed limes, which leads to crisp acidity on the palate. It's an ideal summer wine but make sure it's well chilled. Like all Clare rieslings, this is ideal with shellfish.
Wine'n'Things (tel: 2873 5733)
Kilikanoon 2002, $188
I stopped to have a look at an old settlers' church along the Riesling Trail and almost died laughing. There's a plaque in the church that tells of an early English explorer who was shot dead by his camel. It seems he saw a bird he wanted to shoot and while trying to get his shotgun from the camel's saddle, the animal kicked out and rolled over. The gun went off, killing the man. This forced me on to the next cellar door. Winemaker Kevin Mitchell is a local who worked on a number of Clare estates. He has since developed his own riesling style: a rounder, fuller and more alcoholic white. This wine has ample flavour while retaining the typical tart freshness of the fruit and the region. There's a nice intensity that makes this a glorious companion to grilled fish.
