1 Shangxiajiu Road
There's no starker example of Guangzhou's spirit of commerce than the shopping anarchy of Shangxiajiu Road, in the southwest of the city. More intense than Tsim Sha Tsui on Christmas Eve and as graceless as a bar-room brawl, this heaving street gives a whole new meaning to the phrase 'market forces'. Join the perennial throng and get ready to shove and be shoved in the hunt for the finest and cheapest of Guangzhou fashion. Clothes, shoes and jewellery shops lurk behind concrete pillars, which funnel the crowds. Above, neon signs hang from pastel-coloured buildings dotted with stained-glass windows. Towering apartment blocks loom tall on the flanks, adding to the sense of claustrophobia. Elbow your way to the counters and barter belligerently. With its independent feel and breathtaking intensity, Shangxiajiu Road is one of Guangzhou's defining experiences.
2 Shamian Island
Look at the map and it's difficult to take Shamian's status as an island seriously. It fits the contours of the riverbank perfectly and is cleaved from the mainland by little more than a moat. Cross the footbridge, though, and the moat could just as well be an ocean. Traffic all but disappears, birdsong strikes up, and life instantly becomes less stressful. The central boulevard, Shamian Da Jie, runs nearly the 1km width of the island and makes for a pleasant stroll amid the many surviving examples of French and British architecture, a reminder of the island's colonial past. To the south are several bars and restaurants. The views across the Pearl River lure tai-chi practitioners at dawn, while lovers take advantage of the shady corners as the sun goes down. Visit either of the island's two churches and cruise the many gift-shops for Chinese paintings, scrolls and tea sets. The closest MTR station to Shamian Island is Huangsha.
3 Temple of the Chen Clan
Guangzhou goes back 2,200 years, but its historical relics aren't always readily apparent. One of the most visible and best preserved is the Temple of the Chen Clan, just off Zhongshanqi Road. Built between 1890 and 1894 and occupying an area of 15,000sqm, the temple comprises six courtyards and nine imposing halls built in perfect symmetry. The temple is also the home of the widest collection of folk handicrafts in Guangdong. Myths and legends are represented in many art forms, including wood, brick and stone carvings, and clay and brass sculptures. The temple is open daily between 8.30am and 5.30pm and entry is 10 yuan. Take the MTR to Chen Jia Ci station.