For foreigners, though, the most popular dish is bulgogi - slices of fresh beef char-broiled on a brazier set in the centre of the table, and then dipped in a tangy sauce of sesame seed oil, soy sauce, garlic and onions.

Together with this comes half a dozen side dishes, including rice, soup, tofu, and the world famous kim chee - cabbage soaked for several weeks, or even months, in a briny mixture of garlic, vinegar and chili peppers. The explosive result can be delicious when taken with bland rice, but it is an acquired taste and the lasting aroma is so potent that Korean Air attendants are forbidden to eat it 24 hours before a flight.

Seoul is not a gourmet's city. While there are hundreds of restaurants, for the traveller accustomed to restaurants in Hong Kong or Singapore, Seoul's cafes and assorted eateries will appear small.

Most of the capital's bigger hotels, however, offer a wide choice of restaurants serving Korean dishes and international cuisine.

The Seoul Hilton probably tops the list with three - the Genji, an elegant Japanese restaurant; Il Ponte, a chic Italian eatery; and Seasons, a highly rated continental restaurant. The Hyatt Regency has Hugo's Grill Room, while the Lotte has more than 20 diverse restaurants.

But, when in Seoul, it would be foolish not to sample some authentic Korean dishes in a local setting.

Two recommended Korean restaurants are Sanch'on (244-11 Huam-dong, Yongsan-gu, tel: 777-9696) and Neulbom Gongwon (92-12 Nonhyun-dong, Kangnam-ku, tel: 543-8804/6).

The first is a vegetarian eatery owned by a former Buddhist monk.

The food is bland, but the restaurant itself is a real charmer - an old structure with low wood-beamed ceilings and cosy heated ondol floors which authentically capture the Korea of a century ago. In the evening, there is a fascinating demonstration of Korean drums by female musicians.

The Neulbom Gongwon specialises in beef and rib barbecues cooked on a charcoal brazier at your table.

The restaurant's unstructured, semi-open design allows diners to look out over a small garden, ponds and a waterfall.

This is a lovely restaurant, the ideal place to relax and linger with special friends.

For fast-food fans, Seoul's lively Itaewon district offers Burger King, McDonald's, Kentucky Fried Chicken and Pizza Hut.

South of the Han River is Seoul's newly fashionable district, Kangnam. Here, stylish apartment blocks jostle for attention with trendy department stores, pubs, coffee shops, chic boutiques, restaurants and nightclubs.

When the trendy US restaurant chain Friday's decided to open its first outlet in Korea, it went to Kangnam.

For business travellers wanting to truly impress their Korean hosts, a visit the Comedy Club should do the trick.

Located at 51814 Shinsa-dong and open seven nights a week from 8 pm to midnight, it serves a range of Korean snacks such as pindaedok (a spicy Korean-style pizza) as well as international dishes. But, as all the jokes are in Korean, it is best to take along a patient Korean friend.

Outside of Seoul, international restaurants are few, with the better ones almost exclusively in large hotels.

In the port of Pusan, the Hyatt Hotel offers excellent seafood.

while the new Hilton in Kyongju boasts four outstanding restaurants.