TRAVELLERS to South Korea who find Seoul hotels too rich for their blood - many top hotels in the Korean capital now charge as much as those in Tokyo - should consider the attractions of Korea's traditional inns, yogwans. Korean yogwans offer spotlessly clean accommodation at bargain basement rates. They are especially cozy during the icy cold Korean winters. Reason: they all have the advantage of traditional ondol floors, an ingenious age-old Korean invention whereby the floor is warmed through heat ducts which honeycomb the floor. When you check into a yogwan, you will be escorted to your room. The hotel clerk will open a small wardrobe to unroll a Korean yo, a fluffy mattress you place on the floor. On top of the yo, she will place another fluffy quilt called ibul. And, lastly, there is the pyogae (pillow). A few minutes later, she will bring a pot of fresh, slightly sweet barley tea and you are on your own. Attached to the bedroom will be a spotlessly clean bathroom with shower, tub and toilet where you will find a package with toothbrush and paste, soap, shampoo and shaving kit. Aside from a wardrobe and a 1940s-styled hat rack, there will also be a small colour television. on which will be the latest Korean soap opera. Though few yogwans have restaurants on their premises, they are always located in areas awash with a wide range of places to eat. Perhaps the best part of staying in a yogwan is the price. Average room rates vary, but they generally range from 10,000 won (about HK$120) to 20,000 won. By comparison, few major hotels in Seoul cost less than HK$1,200 per night.