Dried scallops are one of the few luxury Chinese dried food products we can enjoy without guilt about such issues as cruelty, as with shark's fin, declining populations from overfishing (abalone) or wondering if we are funding shady characters who pay a pittance to the workers risking their lives by scaling vertiginous cave walls (swallows' nests).
Unlike fresh scallops, which are delicate, tender and suffer from overcooking, dried scallops have a strong flavour, are slightly chewy and need to be soaked in warm water before being simmered or stewed. They are also expensive, but a little goes a long way. Small dried scallops (or broken pieces) are usually sold loose or in small plastic bags at wet markets and grocery stores. Large dried scallops, which are the most expensive, are sold in boxes and are usually reserved for special occasions.
Dried scallops are delicious simmered in soup, congee and stews, and they are also one of the main ingredients in XO sauce. Before using dried scallops, rinse and then soak them for about 30 minutes in cool water.
The simplest use for dried scallops is to cook them in traditional Chinese-style - mixed with steamed eggs. Whisk eggs with an equal weight of water (use the liquid used to soak the scallops). Use your fingers to break the soaked scallops into fine shreds and whisk them into the eggs along with some finely ground white pepper. Steam the custard over a low heat until set - it should be slightly wobbly in the centre - then sprinkle with chopped spring onions and drizzle with soy sauce and sesame oil.
To make congee, soak the scallops then add them (and the soaking liquid) to a small amount of rice and lots of water (the proportions I use are 1:13 but make it thinner or thicker according to your taste). Simmer until the rice is soft and the congee smooth. Serve with a shaker of white pepper and side dishes of preserved vegetables, spring onions, peanuts, thousand-year-old eggs and salted eggs.
For another simple dish, peel fuzzy melons (sze gwa), cut them in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Soak the dried scallops and dried mushrooms until soft. Cut the mushrooms in halves or quarters, depending on the size. Put the fuzzy melons, cut-side up, in a pot big enough to hold them in one layer then sprinkle lightly with salt. Add the mushrooms, scallops and some of the strained soaking liquid. Cover the pot and simmer over a low heat, adding more liquid when necessary. When the sze gwa is tender, remove it from the pan along with the mushrooms and scallops. Drizzle some oyster sauce into the pan and add chicken broth or more soaking liquid. Let this simmer then thicken it slightly with cornflour mixed with a little water. Pour the sauce over the sze gwa and sprinkle with chopped spring onions.