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Susan Jung

Veal is a subtle meat. Its pale colour is similar to that of pork but it lacks that meat's lovely fattiness and flavour. Because it comes from calves that haven't eaten grass or grain, veal is lean, tender and somewhat bland, making it a good showcase for strong flavours.

Pan-seared veal chops with lemon

and capers (pictured)

4  veal chops, about 2.5cm thick

80ml olive oil

100ml freshly squeezed lemon juice

The zest (yellow part only) of ? lemon, preferably removed with a zester (if using a vegetable peeler, remove the  zest then cut into long strips)

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 sprig fresh rosemary, lightly bruised

100ml Swanson's chicken broth mixed with 100ml water

1 heaped tbsp capers, rinsed and drained

60 grams unsalted butter, divided

30ml cooking oil

Chopped fresh parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

Combine the olive oil, 50ml of the lemon juice, lemon zest, garlic and rosemary. Rub the mixture into the veal chops and marinate at room temperature for an hour.

Scrape the solids and as much of the marinade as possible from the veal chops. Pour it through a sieve and reserve the solids (garlic, lemon zest and rosemary).

Heat 30 grams of butter with the cooking oil in a

skillet large enough to hold the chops in one layer (if necessary use two skillets, with  20 grams of butter and 20ml of oil in each). Sprinkle the chops on both sides

with salt and pepper. When the foam from the butter subsides, add the  chops to the pan. Sear the chops quickly until browned, then turn   and brown the other side. Cover the pan with the lid, lower the heat and cook for about five minutes in total (depending on the size of the chops), or until done - the meat should be slightly pink inside. Remove the chops from the pan and keep warm.

Discard all but about 30ml of fat from the pan, keeping   the  brown bits, which add flavour. Add the solids from the marinade to the pan and cook until fragrant. Stir in the chicken broth and water and heat over a medium-high flame until simmering, scraping the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Simmer to reduce the sauce slightly then stir in the capers and remaining 50ml of lemon juice and cook for about 30 seconds.  Adjust seasoning  if necessary. Discard the sprig of rosemary. Remove the pan from the heat and swirl in 30 grams of butter and the chopped parsley. Spoon the sauce over the chops and serve immediately.

Veal rollatini with pancetta, gorgonzola and walnuts

There are two types of pancetta - smoked pancetta, which looks like  unsliced bacon, and the rolled variety, which is unsmoked. For this recipe buy  rolled pancetta and have the butcher slice it  thinly. The small, local, oval tomatoes are good in this dish because they're full of flavour.  They should be  diced and just heated through so they retain their shape and don't become mushy.

8 veal scaloppine, pounded thin to  dimensions of 12-13cm long, 8-9cm wide and less than 5mm thick

8  thin slices of rolled pancetta

120 grams (approximately) gorgonzola

2 large eggs

60 grams (approximately) walnuts, toasted and

roughly chopped

50ml milk

Flour, for dredging

Panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)

50 grams cooking oil

50 grams unsalted butter

Freshly ground black pepper

For the sauce:

400 grams local oval tomatoes, diced

2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed then cut in half

Julienned fresh basil

15ml balsamic vinegar

30ml extra virgin olive oil

Salt to taste

Put a slice of pancetta on each piece of veal and press firmly so the meats  stick together. Trim the pancetta if

it protrudes from the edges of the veal. Sprinkle  gorgonzola and walnuts  to cover 2/3 of each piece of

veal  and grind some black pepper on top. Roll tightly

so the pancetta, gorgonzola and nuts are on the inside,  with the veal on the outside. Secure the ends of  each roll with a toothpick. Dredge the rolls completely in flour and shake off the excess, then dip in egg and  cover with breadcrumbs, patting them on firmly so they adhere. Cover the rolls with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours. Remove the rolls from the fridge 15 minutes before cooking.

Over a medium-high flame, heat the butter and oil in a skillet. When the foam from the butter subsides, add the rolls in one layer - do not crowd the pan; cook them in batches if necessary. Turn the rolls so they brown evenly, then remove from the pan and place them on a warm platter. Remove the toothpicks.

To make the tomato sauce heat a dry (unoiled) skillet over a high flame and add the tomatoes and garlic. Sprinkle with salt and cook over a high flame until the tomatoes are hot and giving off juice. Remove from the heat and discard the garlic. Stir in the chopped basil, balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Spoon  the tomato sauce over the veal rolls and serve immediately. Serves four.

Veal scaloppine with marsala and cream

This simple recipe comes from Marcella Hazan's book, More Classic Italian Cooking.

8   veal scaloppine, pounded thin

Flour, for dredging

30ml cooking oil

45 grams unsalted butter

60ml dry marsala

80ml cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Sprinkle the veal slices with salt and pepper and dredge in flour, shaking off the excess. In a large skillet, heat the butter and oil over a high flame, then place the slices in one layer in the sizzling fat - do not crowd the pan. Cook for about one minute on each side until  browned, then put the slices on a large platter.

Add the marsala to the pan and heat over a high flame. Deglaze the pan, scraping  the brown bits from the bottom. When the marsala is simmering, stir in the cream and whisk until it forms a thick sauce. Taste for seasoning and spoon over the veal. Serves four.

STYLING  Leonie van Hasselt



The veal deal