Terry Durack was a long-time food reviewer for The Sydney Morning Herald until 2000, when he and his wife of 23 years, food writer Jill Dupleix, moved to London. He is now a restaurant reviewer for The Independent. Durack and Dupleix were in Hong Kong recently while he covered the restaurant scene for Conde Nast Traveller.
What new places have you tried in Hong Kong? 'We had a great meal at Hutong [Tsim Sha Tsui] - the food was terrific. We had a lamb rib dish that's really special. We ate at the Kee Club [Central] last night but I ordered from the Yung Kee menu. We had the goose, which is phenomenal, fantastic. We've also been to the place in Whampoa Gardens that makes dan dan mien - Wing Lai Yuen - which I really enjoyed. And we tried the new Italian place, Isola Bar + Grill [Two IFC]. The truffle pizza is good: truffles and stracchino cheese and mache leaves pizza. That was terrific.'
What other restaurants do you like in Hong Kong? 'Whenever I visit I have to eat at Spring Moon [in The Peninsula]. I feel at ease there. I love the surroundings and the head chef and dim sum chef are terrific. They've been there for so long and they really uphold the standards. The food is elegant without trying too hard.'
What cities do you like for food? 'Barcelona. I'm having a love affair with all things Spanish at the moment. We also like anywhere in Italy. I have these spiritual homes - Rome and Hong Kong. Whenever I fly into Rome and Hong Kong something inside me says, 'You're coming home.' Even the attitudes of the inhabitants of both places are similar.'
What's your favourite restaurant in the world? 'Louis XV [Monte Carlo]. It's everything I would usually hate in a restaurant - Louis XV-style with murals on the wall, chandeliers, marble, all the staff in ties and black jackets. But the food is so honest with the flavours of the region - it's Provencal and the flavours are rustic and gutsy. The restaurant has the elegance, the experience and the 'haute feel' but they serve flavours you crave. That's why it's an unusual experience.'
What do you eat for comfort food? 'Usually something Chinese or Italian and usually it involves noodles. I'm a noodle freak and I'm just as interested in Italian noodles too. As long as it's long and slippery I'm a happy man.'