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Change of course

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THERE CAN'T BE too many golfers in the history of the US Masters who have packed their own cooking utensils alongside their golf clubs. But it's a routine Zhang Lianwei follows for every golf trip. Whether playing in, arguably, the world's top golfing tournament or in a small event on the Asian tour, being able to prepare his favourite food is essential.

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For a sport that in China is considered exclusively for the rich (so much so that some advocate a luxury tax on those who can afford to play it), cooking one's own food might seem unnecessary, especially if you also find yourself on Forbes magazine's Top 100 Chinese Celebrities List, which grades people in terms of their wealth, influence and media exposure.

It may have something to do with Zhang's peasant roots, and the knowledge that four of his five brothers and sisters still earn a living by working the fields in his native village of Nanshui near Zhuhai. Since his own days behind a plough, it's been a long but fruitful journey, and one that began with a simple desire.

'To get rid of my peasant status was the primary goal in my life,' says the tanned 39-year-old, sitting in a cafe in the Beijing Links Golf Club, the capital's first downtown golf course, where he was attending a team event between the mainland and Taiwan last month. 'There's a huge gap between country life and city life. What could I do if I go back home? Nothing but plough a field.'

From that field in Nanshui, Zhang's sporting journey culminated in him being the first Chinese national to be invited to play in the US Masters, in April. But even before that historic, and somewhat controversial, invitation to play at Augusta, Zhang's fame has helped popularise the game among the increasing numbers who can afford the annual fees that are beyond most people.

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The story of his rise from a low-paid caddie to China's No1 golfer has also propelled many rural boys to try a similar route to fame and fortune. It's something Zhang, while clearly enjoying his status and lifestyle (he apologise for his dishevelled hair, having just come from the clubhouse spa), clearly feels a responsibility about. He warns young golfers to carefully judge their talent before turning professional.

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