So last century
IT MAY WELL be 30 degrees Celsius outside and shopping for cashmere sweaters and leather jackets is the last thing on your mind. But while many Hongkongers consider August to be a time to enjoy the summer sunshine, the month usually marks a time of anticipation for avid shoppers as racks of scrumptiously hued autumn/winter merchandise arrive in stores.
A sense of nostalgia is in the air as hourglass silhouettes and nipped waistlines become the key trends this winter. Having had a lingering flirtation with 1970s hippie-chic kaftans, luxe sportswear ensembles and ethereal chiffon pieces, fashion has taken a detour to the 50s with designers paying homage to the 'New Look' period as refined elegance dominates the runways.
'The retro revival is a big theme for the autumn/winter season and we're looking at many designers referencing the 20s, 50s and the 70s,' says Rita Chan, womenswear buyer from Swank. 'The dominant trend will revolve around the 50s and there will be lots of tweeds, fur, and belted outerwear in colours of earth tones and emerald greens.' Drawing inspirations from the 50s, designers such as Michael Kors from Celine, Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton and Alber Elbaz for Lanvin have come up with collections that consist of hip-hugging pencil skirts, delicately tucked diaphanous blouses and snugly fitted jackets that come in an array of fabrics ranging from exotic furs to boiled wool and nubby tweeds.
'The major trend for winter would be Hitchcock heroine, which is similar to the look of the 50s sexy secretary,' says Lane Crawford fashion director Sarah Rutson. 'Vintage brooches will be essential, must-have accessories for the season along with the skinny belt. The overall spirit is very feminine, very demure and very sexy. Round toe heels will be popular footwear this winter and will go very well with both trousers and skirts.'
With cosy ensembles that can take you from office to soiree, this winter is shaping up to be a season of polished uptown chic and ladylike looks. Here's a list of this season's must-haves, and the top picks from those in the know.
Joyce
'Autumn 2004 is truly a kaleidoscope of the most wanted items,' says a spokesperson for the multi-label boutique. 'You'd want to buy everything because designers showed refined, beautiful, yet practical items in the collections. There's such a variety of pieces you could add to your wardrobe to create a personal look. The holiday edition of the Balenciaga handbag is a limited-edition must-have travel tote for the season and Brian Atwood's fringed boots will add an interesting twist to your everyday ensemble. They're very sexy and can be worn with jeans for day and miniskirts or dresses for the evening.'
Swank
Prepare your lapels for a dash of sparkle. 'With retro being a key trend this season, brooches have become essential items,' says Rita Chan. 'Christian Lacroix has some nice rhinestone brooches for winter. For coats, I'd recommend Kenzo's embroidered tweed coat.'
Lane Crawford
'Fifties-inspired dresses will be key items this winter,' says fashion director Sarah Rutson. 'Dresses from Alberta Ferretti, Marc Jacobs, Easton Pearson, which can be worn with a cropped mink fur coat with bracelet sleeves, are must-have items next season.'
Bottega Veneta
'The Poison Crocodile Fume Three Piece Frame Bag would be the most wanted item for the season,' says PR manager Sheryl Tam. 'The inspiration comes straight from a vintage Bottega Veneta bag from the 60s and 70s found in our archives, which results in the return of the original 1960s Bottega Veneta three-piece frame made with the softest crocodile skin.'
Celine
The Audrey Leopard Boogie, a limited-edition version of the cult status Boogie bag, is the most wanted item for winter. Fifty pieces are available at the Landmark boutique in Hong Kong. The printed pony calf tote comes with brass metallic rivets that gives the bag a 50s spirit.
Loewe
Inspired by the lateral patches of falcon hoods, the label's latest Falcon Bag is uniquely designed and from a single piece of leather. The bags come in fabrics ranging from exotic python and cobra to suede and canvas.
Louis Vuitton
Drawing inspiration from the Scottish Highlands, designer Marc Jacobs unveiled a collection of tartan separates, luxurious fur jackets, decollete dresses and versatile round toe pumps that go well with this winter's ubiquitous 50s frocks.
Valentino
'We've already sold out of our ruffled-knit coat in our first delivery,' says brand manager Valeria Azario. 'This coat with ribbon trimmings is an elegant outerwear alternative for the evenings.'
