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Susan Jung

Isola Bar & Grill

Shop 3071-3075,

Level 3, IFC Mall

8 Finance Street, Central

Tel: 2383 8765

The first problem with Isola is getting a dinner booking before 9pm (it took  five attempts). The second is finding the way up to the third-floor restaurant (take the escalators in the centre of the mall because the ones at  the extreme ends lead to dead-ends). And the third is trying to read the menu in the darkness of the back table we were relegated to, as far from the great views  as could be (we had to hold up candles and squint).

Then  there's the problem of trying to decide what to order from  a truly tempting menu.

The large space was buzzing (at an acceptable level) and  all the tables were filled on a Monday.  My guest and I decided to share two starters. The trifola  pizza ($168) was lovely - a thin, slightly charred crust covered in mozzarella, dotted with bits of black truffle and then spread with the tender leaves of mache (lamb's leaf lettuce).

My guest thought the strozzapreti  pasta with fava beans, Parma ham and caciocavallo  cheese ($138) was a little bland, but I loved its subtle richness. The hand-twisted pasta was chewy and creamy, offset in colour by the beautiful green of the fava beans and in taste by the saltiness of the ham.

Kurobuta pork (from Japanese black pigs) is famous for its succulence, and my main course of pork chop with honey and vinegar sauce ($218) didn't disappoint. The thick, juicy chop was coated in a sauce that had been reduced so much it was  a sticky, glossy glaze. The slightly tangy shredded cabbage and apple served with the meat  were a good contrast.

What was most surprising was my guest's grilled swordfish with aromatic bread crumbs ($198). This fish is hard to cook because it has a tendency towards dryness, but this was firm yet moist.  By far the best swordfish dish I've  tasted.

There was a problem with timing between our pasta and main courses - we had to wait more than 30 minutes, so we didn't have time for dessert. It would have been difficult to fit  it in, anyway.

Apart from the timing of the courses, my only complaints with Isola are the same I have with many restaurants in Hong Kong: high wine prices (I'm aware of standard pricing policies, but that doesn't mean I agree with them), and not enough choice for moderate drinkers (five half-bottles, five choices each for whites and reds by the glass). Bigger groups, and those with big wallets, would appreciate the bottle selection, which covered all main wine-producing regions of Italy.

Our half-bottle of Rubesco 2000 Lungarotti  ($260) went well with the pizza and pork. A two-course meal for two was $1,135.



Isola Bar & Grill