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Perfect 10

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1 Esplanade

Helsinki's Pohjoisesplanadi is a great place to wander around and soak in the city's atmosphere. Roaming string quartets entertain cafe-goers with renditions of lively classical music - such as Brahms' Hungarian Rhapsody - till the wee hours of the morning. People dance on the pavements, and rock bands belt out modern numbers in English and Finnish. There are many fine restaurants, as well as pubs and cafes where the strong, full-bodied taste of Lapin Kulta, the local beer, is the favoured brew.

2 Suomenlinna sea fortress

One of the world's largest maritime fortresses, Suomenlinna was built in the 1700s across six islands off Helsinki's coast and has been a Unesco World Heritage site since 1991. The 15-minute ferry ride to Suomenlinna from Market Square is fun and provides a view of the magnitude of this enormous fortress from the sea. The Suomenlinna Museum on the main island chronicles its history, and is certainly worth a look. The Swedish, who once ruled Finland, built the fortress as their main point of defence to counter the ambitions of Russia's Peter the Great. Suomenlinna is very much a living museum: its 1,000 or so residents, who commute to the mainland to work, live in charming wooden heritage houses or barracks that have been converted into apartments. It's a popular place for Helsinki day-trippers who love sunbathing on the rocky cliffs or just idling the time away in one of the sea-view cafes. The many tunnels of the old fortress are fascinating to explore, but be prepared for a lot of walking (www.suomenlinna.fi).

3 Senate Square

Senate Square has historical importance for Finns. It was planned when Finland became part of the Russian empire in 1809. The cathedral, Government Palace and the university were designed by C.L. Engel, Finland's most prominent 19th-century architect. The cathedral is an imposing work of art that dominates the square with its stark, white walls and green domes. Engel worked on it from 1818 until his death in 1840. The architecture around the square is 19th-century neo-classical, and is impressive. In the centre stands the only remaining statue of Russian tsar Alexander II. The south side of the square is lined with 18th- to 19th-century merchant houses that have been converted into offices, shops and restaurants.

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