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SCMP Reporter

Q Should I only buy antique English silver that bears  a hallmark?

WHAT THE EXPERT SAYS:

Hallmarks are the original form  of consumer guarantee, and originated in Britain, says  Esme Parish, a silver dealer  with offices in Hong Kong,  Paris, Singapore and Dubai.

'It has a claim to being  the oldest form of consumer protection,' she says. 'The  true beginning of the hallmark system was 1300, when it was stated that no piece of silver was 'to depart out of the hands of the workers' until it had been tested for fineness and marked, initially with a leopard's head. The standard was 92.5 per cent pure - the same as coinage at that time. It became known as sterling silver.

'Maker's marks, usually  their initials, were introduced in 1363,' Parish says. 'The policing system was introduced by the London Goldsmiths Company to verify the quality and value of gold, silver and platinum items. From 1478, the guild of goldsmiths, which included silversmiths, decided to add the date letter - a series based on the alphabet.'

MIXED SYMBOLS:

For the past 700 years,  hallmarks have helped collectors identify British-made sterling silver,  as well as given them clues  to where it was made and by whom, Parish says.

As the system developed,  new meanings were assigned to different symbols. 'From 1544, the leopard's head was replaced by the heraldic symbol of the lion passant, and the leopard's head was used for items assayed in London,' she says.

'Later, other assay [testing] offices were set up in towns  that produced silver, each with  its own distinctive symbol and system of date letters.

'Other European countries have used marks on their silver products, but none to the extent  of Britain. For example, the Netherlands developed a similar system with two silver standards. First quality of about 83.5 per cent was marked by a lion rampant with an 'I' below it,' she says. 'Second quality silver was marked with a lion passant with 'II' under the symbol.'

German silver is 80 per cent fine and is usually marked with the number '800'.  Since 1838, the French have  used two standards: 95 per cent purity and 80 per cent purity, with the Minerva (coin) head as the symbol.

Hallmarking differs in North America, Parish says.  'In the US, the manufacturer stamps the item 'sterling silver' and places its own mark and a design number. There, the maker is all important, such as Tiffany. In Britain,  hallmarks are placed on all items other than the very smallest trinkets. If you can't find the silver mark, beware!'

As with today's big brand names, some makers' works are more prestigious than others. 'Serious collectors pay serious money for items crafted by famous Georgian silversmiths such as Paul Storr  and Hester Bateman,'  Parish says.

From 1784 until 1890, what Parish describes as 'an odd interruption' took place: the introduction of a duty on silver luxury goods with a duty mark in the form of the monarch's head as proof of payment. 'Nowadays, if you're a collector you may well expect to pay premium for an item with the duty mark,' she says.

NEW COLLECTOR TIPS:

'Look for hallmarks when  collecting,'  Parish says. 'If  there are no marks, then think seriously before buying.  Breathe on the marks: they immediately become more readable (and  you look professional). If, as is possible in the case of expensive Georgian silver, someone is using an introduced mark you can immediately see the edge  of an inset mark.'

Parish warns against damaged goods. 'Splits in edges or spouts are hard to repair, as  is a dent in a vase with a narrow neck. Beware of anything that has a coppery sheen. This doesn't go away and indicates  a poor quality or low percentage of silver.'

She recommends collecting in period. 'With the hallmark system, you know what you're buying - which makes English silver so collectable. The old adage, 'you get what you pay for', is so true with silver. A tea pot made in Georgian times [before 1830] is worth a lot more than the same style pot made in the 1890s and also in the 1950s.

'Beware of bargains. If you're spending  serious money make sure you trust the person selling. If you aren't paying much, then just enjoy and don't be sad if it isn't such a bargain after all.'

RESOURCES: Books from Amazon.co.uk: English Silver Hallmarks by Judith Banister ($69.98); Encyclopedia of American Silver Manufacturers by Dorothy Rainwater and Colette Fuller published by Schiffer ($420); Jackson's Silver and Gold Marks of England, Scotland and Ireland by Ian Pickford ($82.80).

Esme Parish Silver, tel: 2858 0140 or www.esmeparishsilver.com.



Expert Advice