Losing flair and flaunting luxury

In recent years, Hong Kong's penchant for luxury has best been seen in the growth of high-end shopping centres and a boutiques boom. But the mania for labels may have gone too far.

'Luxury brands are not only part of the cultural landscape but also an obsession,' says Tsun Chen, editor of Hong Kong Tatler.

Despite the number of international design houses, the city lacks its own style. While fashion capitals such as Paris, London and New York have a recognisable style, be it America's utilitarian chic or the Parisiens' effortless grace, Hong Kong's focus is on imported brands and is defined by the latest labels.

For Janice Wong, who was a fashion editor at Ming Pao Weekly for 10 years, contemporary Hong Kong fashion is summarised by logos and runway looks.

'You can tell that a woman is from Hong Kong judging from the head-to-toe designer clothing. It's such a shame that the city has become Eurocentric ... Bespoke tailoring and traditional cheongsams used to be a characteristic of Hong Kong fashion, yet somehow we have evolved into just a brand-obsessed capital,' Ms Wong says.

From the snug-fitting cheongsams, or qipao, of the 1930s to the obsession with high-end brands, it appears women have digressed from tradition. 'It was never like this before,' she says. 'Fashion in Hong Kong used to be about craftsmanship and tailoring ... cheongsams, intricately beaded dresses and beautiful embroideries.'

A cross between Qing dynasty ankle-length tunics of the early 1900s and European women's wear, the cheongsam was worn in the early half of the century. The dress, characterised by its high collar, knotted huaniu buttons and fitted silhouette, represented a stereo-typical view of Asian women - subservient yet sexually empowered. Seasonal variations in collar heights, shortness of the sleeves, length of the hemlines and thigh-high slits revamped the cheongsam over the years.