There was nothing classy about drinking in the early days of Hong Kong. Grog was served aboard Royal Navy ships and rum was also a favoured tipple in the watering holes that flourished along the shore.
In the rats' nest of brothels and bars (mostly run by enterprising policemen until corruption purges in the 1890s), managers poured cheap hooch and beers that were brewed locally.
The more upmarket clientele at outlets like the Hong Kong Club enjoyed imported clarets and whiskies; after a few drinks, they would be carried home in sedan chairs via their mistresses' custom-built accommodation at the end of Duddell Street.
By the start of the 20th century, Hong Kong had some fine hotels which took pride in their wine lists. Quality beer was brewed in the New Territories. Twin impulses (the economic boom of the 1960s and the simultaneous growth of tourism) sent drinking tastes upmarket.
Suddenly, everyone had money and a thirst. For newly wealthy Chinese entrepreneurs, this was manifested in the 1970s by spending outrageous amounts for the finest possible cognacs.
Sales delighted French hearts. For two decades, Hong Kong glugged down more expensive cognacs than did any other nation on Earth.
