A rich, living heritage that is still evolving

We may not have retained the historic monuments that help to chronicle the stories behind many of the world's great cities, but Hong Kong's character derives more from flesh and blood than bricks and mortar

The heritage of many communities is carved plainly in stone, with public buildings that make a statement. They stand for decades, often centuries, symbols of lasting values, solid reminders of the achievements of a society. In Beijing, there is the Temple of Heaven, in London it is St Paul's Cathedral - physical symbols of eternal values.

Hong Kong is different. Our constantly changing skyline reflects a restless striving for change, a quest for something bigger, better, more eye-catching.

From the Star Ferry, visitors can scan Hong Kong Island's waterfront from the wings of the Convention Centre to the Macau Ferry piers. In that stretch of real estate with buildings soaring ever higher and valued collectively at billions of dollars, there are few remaining historic landmarks of our brief 163-year history.

A mariner sailing into port after a 30-year absence could, with difficulty, pick out less than a handful of familiar facades. There are the twin City Hall buildings, so unimaginatively branded the Low Block and the High Block. The clutch of low-rise offices huddled under the military tower at Tamar. There is the Mandarin hotel (opened in 1963) which is soon to be renovated, changing its distinctive facade.

And that's about it. From the water, the observer cannot see the former Supreme Court that houses the Legislative Council. Nor can the gracious old French Mission be spotted, nor cathedrals, nor any architectural remnant of the 19th or 20th centuries. All are gone. The island waterfront gleams with new monuments. So where do we find the city's living heritage?