La BODEGA 31C/D Wyndham Street, Central. Phone 877-3101 or 877-5472. 3 PLATES OUT OF FIVE. THERE are only a few bars and restaurants in Hong Kong that can make a European expatriate feel at home. La Bodega has long been one of those places. It is never too formal, the service is efficient and the food is of good quality. La Bodega also has a reputation for innovation. It has recently added to its menu what might be the perfect culinary complement to traditional tapas - fondue. This is the kind of fun finger food best eaten with a small group of close friends. Start with the Matterhorn cheese fondue ($145) and follow with meat morsels ($135). A big bowl of side salad and/or French fries makes a nice addition. Both fondues come with a free glass of schnapps. Fondue sets take only a few minutes to heat up, after which it is a free-for-all as diners use small barbecue forks to spear cubes of meat, dipping them in hot oil to cook. Several dips are served for an extra touch of flavour. The tapas menu includes gazpacho (cold pepper and tomato soup), albondigas (meatballs) $29 and chorizo, (Spanish sausage) $35. For Spanish food lovers, paella is available for a minimum of two people, but you must order 24 hours ahead. There are good Spanish and Chilean wines, a strolling band adds more authenticity and a Calvados (apple brandy) for the road should ensure a good night's sleep.