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Lisbon has had its share of disasters over the years, notably the 18th-century earthquake that flattened the Portuguese capital. A 1988 fire devastated the Chiado district, but the locals have bounced back in spectacular fashion. Chiado has emerged as the city's hippest shopping district while retaining its air of 19th-century grandeur.
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Dedicated shoppers should check in to the Regency Lisboa Chiado on Rua Nova do Almada (www.regency-hotels-resorts.com). This tasteful boutique hotel occupies the upper floors of the old Armazens do Chiado department store and its rooms have stunning city views.
After breakfast, stroll down to the building's lower floors, which have been remodelled as a chic shopping centre. If you're short of entertainment, head for FNAC (www.fnac.pt). Among the latest computers, digital cameras and DVDs there is an enormous book department and music zone. Stop off at LVMH-owned store Sephora (www.sephora.com) and feast your senses in this beauty emporium with a difference. You'll find everything from DuWop Lip Venom to Frederic Fekkai Glossing Cream laid out accessibly, with no counter assistants to come between you and your favourite lippy. Before you step outside the shopping centre, call at the Adolfo Dominguez accessories shop (www.adolfodominguez.com) for superb utility bags and leather sandals.
For this season's must-haves, head to Rua do Carmo for one of the few Ana Salazar outlets (www.anasalazar.pt). Salazar, a leading light in Portuguese fashion, is rightly revered for her smart and sassy designs. Back on Rua Garrett you'll find fashion favourites such as Spanish chain Zara, where low prices are combined with rapid stock change (www.zara.com).
Chiado's reputation as a meeting place for literary types owes much to Livraria Bertrand. Tucked behind the narrow front of this 18th-century bookshop at No. 73 is a mountain of reading material (www.bertrand.pt). Farther up, on the Largo do Chiado, is perennial fashion favourite Hermes (www.hermes.com) in a beautiful 1920s building.
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Across the street lies one of the world's great chinaware stores. At Vista Alegre (Largo Do Chiado 20-23; www.vistaalegre.pt), modern designs in porcelain, earthenware and pots and pans line the shelves next to traditional Portuguese blue and white wares.

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