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Perfect 10

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1 Plaza de Armas

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It's not unusual to see tourists strolling barefoot in this attractive plaza in the belief they're absorbing positive energy from the once-bustling Inca site. In Inca times, the plaza was a great civil square where parades and ceremonies, especially military celebrations, were held. It once had a large stone sheathed in gold known to the Incas as the Stone of War. Nowadays, colonial arcades frame the square with numerous wooden balconies offering great vantage points from which to enjoy the view, people watch and take a reprieve from the irrepressible shoeshine boys and young girls offering to pose for photos with llamas. A must-see is the magnificent 17th-century cathedral that dominates the square (5 soles or HK$12), for its solid-silver altar and the curious colonial painting of the Last Supper, in which Jesus and his 12 apostles are about to feast on guinea pig. The cathedral is open from 10am-11.30am and 2pm-5.30pm.

2 Garden of Good and Evil Catch a taxi (5 soles) as the sun is rising above the hill of El Christo Blanco, the White Christ, for a visual feast of Cusco and its houses clinging to the mountain in the golden, early light. Then, take a nearby trail to the Balcon del Diablo (Balcony of the Devil). This two-hour hike is a secret well-kept from tourists. However, you can collect a rudimentary map (usually reserved for locals) for the hike from the tourist office at Portal Mantas 117-A (8am to 8pm). Consider taking a picnic lunch for the half-day excursion, or forage for supplies at the colourful, sprawling San Pedro Market on Calle Santa Clara (7am-7pm). Stop for a delicious fruit smoothie (2.50 soles) in the market.

3 Divine intervention

Pamper yourself and stay at the opulent Orient Hotel Group's Hotel Monasterio, which was originally the San Antonio Abad monastery, built in 1595. The monastery was constructed on the foundations of Inca Amaru Qhala's Palace. The hotel, with its piped music of monks' Gregorian chants, is an oasis from the busy cobbled laneways jammed with tourists. Especially inviting is the relaxing arched courtyard with its 300-year-old cedar. The hotel's restaurants, Illariy and El Tupay, are managed by German executive chef Michael Rass, and the latter restaurant is the former refectory of the monks. Both are decorated with 17th- and 18th-century religious artworks of demons and prophets. You can confess all your sins in the 1650 baroque chapel that's attached to the hotel, or take a siesta in one of the premises' royal suites. The 109 rooms and 18 luxury suites are spacious and reflect their Jesuit origins. They're priced from US$292 to US$897 a night, for a single to the Royal Suite, respectively. For an extra US$25 you can have an oxygen-enriched room to alleviate the possibility of altitude sickness - the city is 3,300 metres above sea level. Hotel Monasterio, Calle Palacio 136, Plazoleta Nazarenas, (tel: [5184] 241 777, www.monasterio.orient-express.com).
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4 Pisac

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