Yoyo's B-B-Q, Hong Chuen Korean Restaurant, G/F, 26 Ko Fu House, Fuk Man Road, Sai Kung Tel, 791-0572; hours, 11:30am-3pm; 6-11pm. YOYO'S B-B-Q Hong Chuen Korean Restaurant serves simple, fine food in a clean, cheerful place. This may not merit a trip all the way to Sai Kung, but if you're in the area, it's certainly an excellent alternative to the erstwhile and increasingly expensive (if not overrated) seafood. The Hong Chuen is one hole in the wall of shops lining the main road leading from Hiram's Highway into the minibus terminus in Sai Kung town. Inside, the restaurant is as bright and cheerful as white paint, mirrors and new furniture can make it. The plastic laminated menu, written in four languages (English, Korean, Japanese and Chinese) covers a remarkable range of dishes, from the predictable platters of raw meat and fish (10 choices) for barbecuing to grilled whole fish, hotpots and fried rice. Meat dominates, but vegetable-lovers should not be disheartened. The soups (more like hotpots) comprise a large proportion of vegetables, the appetisers are virtually all vegetables, and the chef is happy to prepare other meat-free dishes. Noodles were the one obvious and disappointing omission. Once food is ordered, a panorama of cold appetisers arrive. The variety usually includes mung bean sprouts, soy bean sprouts, bean curd (usually flavourful), small whole dried fish, pickled vegetables with onions, Chinese spinach with sesame seeds, slices of fish cake or sausages. And always the hot, picked kimchee. Kimchee is a salt-pickled cabbage prepared according to the same principles as German sauerkraut and Chinese soot choy - with the addition of chillies and spices. The Hong Chuen makes its own. In fact they make two kinds: a plain chili-and-cabbage version; and a deluxe version with perilla leaves layered between the cabbage. The plain version arrives automatically; it is crunchy, fresh, not too hot and refreshing. You have to ask (politely plead) for the fiery de luxe. The piece de resistance of our meal was the pah juhn, a spring onion and cuttlefish pancake. The ''pancake'' comprised a generous amount of chopped spring onion with delicate pieces of squid. All of this was lightly bound by a flour and egg batter and pan-fried to perfection. Seldom does cooked squid arrive at the table in such gentle guise. In contrast, and ironically for a seaside town, the grilled whole mackerel was a bit dry and unforgivable fishy in odour. The soup we tried, Spicy Bean Curd Hot Pot, included slices of bean curd, vegetables, and spring onions with a bit of squid in a beef stock flavoured with miso and chili. The broth seemed free of MSG (as did all the dishes), another endearing surprise. The sushi was fresh, though disconcertingly original in its ingredients - ham and Chinese spinach together with salted radish and mock crab. The speciality of the house, dolsot bibimbahb or Stonepot Mixed Rice arrived in a cast iron pot: rice topped with fresh vegetables, sliced winter mushrooms, dried fern (a delicacy called kosari ), and a raw egg, to which the waitress added a dollop of chili paste, and then mixed everything together. The flavour measured up to the drama - but don't flinch at the amount of chili paste that goes in; the chili is mild, and without it the dish is disappointing. By the end of the meal the rice was still warm and a chewy crust had developed at the pot's edge. As for drinks, in addition to various beers and soft drinks, Korean ginseng wine is served. For a potent hot sake, order the wine, ask for some hot water, and mix the two (in 1:1 proportion). Relax, enjoy the earthy tones of ginseng, and digest in peace. Prices are reasonable. Deluxe barbecue for two costs $268; individual dishes are priced between $60 and $90. With wine and a generous selection of food, dinner will cost more than a hundred but less than two, per person.