Ura Harajuku is a densely packed network of lanes containing hundreds of unique fashion stores. Located off Omotesando Dori, it is one of the coolest shopping districts in Tokyo. It is the spot to buy vintage clothes, rare sneakers and those one-off accessories so beloved of local youth.
The best day to shop is Sunday, when teens dressed as their favourite pop stars throng the streets, affording some of the funniest photo oppurtunities you will ever come across. Girls dressed as nurses complete with fake bloodstains and gothic make-up walk hand in hand with boys dressed as second world war army officers.
Begin at the youth shopping mall Laforet, even if it's just to goggle at the fashion-victim staff, before crossing Meiji Dori to the imposing YM Square Building. Take the escalator to the third floor, where you will discover Hanjiro (4-31-10 Jingumae; tel: 81 3 3796 7303), a supermarket-sized second-hand store spread over two floors. Lit by hundreds of colourful chandeliers, its globally sourced vintage clothing and accessories are organised by style and colour.
Exit through the back of YM Square into Ura Harajuku proper and stroll up to 6% DokiDoki (3F San-emu Building, 4-32-4 Jingumae; tel: 81 3 3479 6116), a glittery pink wonderland selling whimsical plastic jewellery and accessories. Not into sugary sweet? Skip down a floor to Read Between The Lines (tel: 81 3 3408 9244), a T-shirt store dedicated to the British punk movement.
Not far away is jump (4-28-26 Jingumae; tel: 81 3 5775 1644), a shop no larger than a garden shed, selling European and American men's and women's shoes. Brands include Alife, Kowalski and other hard-to-find footwear such as the delectable La Tenace butter-soft woven espadrilles that can be rolled into a ball and are perfect for smart travellers.
Close by is underground (4-32-1 Jingumae; tel: 81 3 3403 8639). This basement emporium stocks second-hand Japanese streetwear brands including Number (N)ine, Bathing Ape, Hectic, Under Cover and Head Porter, all in mint condition.