YEE TUNG HEEN 2/F The Excelsior hotel, Causeway Bay. Phone: 837-6790. Monday-Saturday 11 am-2.30 pm, 6-11 pm; Sunday and public holidays 10 am-3 pm, 6-11 pm. STAFF seem to be overlooking the fact that the most important thing about a restaurant is the people eating in it. But, some extraordinarily un-hotel service aside, the new Chinese restaurant at The Excelsior shows great promise. Bookings are essential at this stage and the clientele matches the quietly sophisticated setting. Tables are large, the lighting so bright you barely miss the windows, and the atmosphere hushed. The interior draws heavily on the not unusual combination of the colour red and wooden finishes, but the red is particularly interesting and the wood pale and attractive. Less of a satisfactory fit with the decor are the rather rustic uniforms (brown trousers and Dr Martens, even for the girls), especially as the food is definitely upmarket. The table settings are charming, the tea is top-quality, and food presentation, mostly on plain but stylish white crockery, extremely good. E-fu noodles with duck and mushrooms arrive in a stunning bowl; minced pigeon with lettuce at one end of an outsized plate. Cooking standards are also high, and the food hard to fault in terms of quality. Spring rolls with chicken strips do not have a spot of grease on them; similarly it is hard to believe the taro balls have been deep-fried. Dim sum portions are small, but everything else is large - an order for two is enough for three - so it is possible to spend as little as $80 a head. LA BODEGA 31C/D Wyndham Street, Central. Phone 877-3101 or 877-5472. 3 PLATES OUT OF FIVE. LA Bodega has a reputation for innovation. It has recently added to its menu what might be the perfect culinary complement to traditional tapas - fondue. It is a free-for-all as diners use small barbecue forks to spear cubes of meat, dipping them in hot oil to cook. There are good Spanish and Chilean wines, a strolling band adds more authenticity and a Calvados (apple brandy) for the road should ensure a good night's sleep.