Every Sunday, the masses converge on Sai Kung's waterfront to sample the delights of its seafood restaurants. But if you want to escape the maddening crowds, a 20-minute trip by speedboat from Sai Kung pier will take you to a peaceful harbour where similar fare is available. The boat takes you on a scenic route past the Kau Sai Chau public golf course, numerous fish farms and a sandy bay commonly known as Millionaire's Beach, where luxury yachts and huge motorboats moor while their privileged passengers are at play. Venture further along the rocky coast and you'll find a little bay where three restaurants - Yau Ley (tel: 2791 1822) and Wing Lee (tel: 2792 4058) at sleepy Sha Kiu village and Sha Kiu Seafood (tel: 2792 4733) on the opposite shore at Pak A - offer the usual favourites: steamed snapper, deep-fried chilli pepper squid and scallops with vermicelli and lashings of garlic. Non-seafood options are also available. Opinions differ as to which restaurant is best, but Yau Ley is a personal favourite. After eating your fill, you can retire to one of the hammocks strung under the shade or stroll down to the beach. Active types can hike to the restaurants by taking the track to Pak A from the MacLehose Trail along High Island reservoir. However, nothing beats the windswept speedboat ride back to Sai Kung as the sun sets over Ma On Shan Country Park. A return trip by speedboat for four to six costs about $400. Call the restaurants to arrange transport.