It's the season for crabs from Hokkaido, which are renowned for their sweet flavour. Although most people refer to them as Hokkaido crabs and think there is one variety, the island has several types of the crustacean. Taraba crabs (or king crabs, top and above right) have long legs measuring up to 50cm that are filled with firm, white flesh. Zuwai crabs (or spider or snow crabs) have a delicate, sweet meat, while Japanese hairy crabs, which look nothing like those from Shanghai, are the type you usually find at restaurants listing 'Hokkaido crabs'. Their shells turn bright red when cooked and are covered with bumps. Crabs from Hokkaido are on Japanese menus throughout Hong Kong, including Iccho (three locations in Causeway Bay, the original at 2/F, 8 Russell Street, tel: 2834 4438), Sagano (above left) at the Hotel Nikko (72 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloon, tel: 2313 4215), Kaetsu at the Grand Hyatt (1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, tel: 2588 1234; ext: 7088) and Nadaman at the Island Shangri-La (Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Admiralty, tel: 2820 8570).
