Shop 2075, Podium Level Two IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central Tel: 2805 0566 Harlan's is a beautiful restaurant for Hong Kong's beautiful people. It's elegant but comfortable with a great harbour view, excellent service, an enticing menu (with many dishes I wanted to try) and a wine list to appeal to drinkers who want anything from Screaming Eagle to Petrus. The food, fortunately, lives up to the setting - but at a price. Chef Harlan Goldstein has worked at the Aberdeen Marina Club, whose members, presumably, don't have to worry about looking at the right-hand side of the menu. More humble members of the public should be warned that, even without wine, a three-course dinner is probably going to cost $500 per person. The gorgeous soft shell crabs with spiced avocado and baby greens starter ($118) was generous and crisply fried yet almost greaseless. The wood-stone roasted shrimp with Spanish chorizo ($138) was equally enjoyable, with a subtle saffron aioli and whole-roasted garlic cloves. One of Harlan's signature mains, the slow-cooked Wagyu beef cheeks with cipolle (onion) gravy and mashed potatoes ($260) was wonderfully tender, with a rich, intense sauce. The veal chop ($290) with a side order of rocket salad ($60), although marred by gristle, was delicious in its simplicity, making the porcini mushroom sauce, served on the side, superfluous. The caramel, walnut and banana mille-feuille with toffee raisin sauce ($88) led us to expect a classic mille-feuille with puff pastry. This version had large, thin shards of what resembled honeycomb set artfully in a wonderful banana semi-freddo and deserved its own name. Dinner for two (two starters, two mains and one dessert), with three glasses of wine, was $1,353. Would we come back? Yes, happily - but only if someone else was paying.