Mitte, Berlin

A network of early 20th-century courtyards holds the key to Mitte's retail renaissance. The best known is the Hackesche Hofe, close to Hackescher Markt rail and metro station, a thoughtfully revamped area bursting with trendy pavement cafes. Before hitting the courtyard complex stop off for some household heaven. Butlers (Hackescher Markt, tel: 49 30 4000 5786; www.butlers.de) is a homeware chain brimming with trendy-but-affordable goodies. Across the road you'll find Christian Koban's funky designs at Dom (Hackescher Markt, tel: 49 30 2809 8367; www.dom-ck.com), where you can pick up a faux fur throw for Euro69 ($700).

Once inside, any budding jewellery designer will love Perlin (Hof IV, Die Hackesche Hofe, 40-41 Rosenthaler Strasse, tel: 49 30 489 3333). In this glass-bead emporium you can buy ready-to-wear designs made by the shop's owner, Birgit Laun, or create your own combination from a vast selection of styles and colours. Austrian-born Elisabeth Prantner was one of the first Hackesche Hofe tenants with her Lisa D (Hof IV, Die Hackesche Hofe, tel: 49 30 282 9061; www.lisad.com) atelier and shop. Her avant-garde approach to fashion suits the area.

More head-turning looks can be found in the tiny Fishbelly (pictured, 7a Sophienstrasse, tel: 49 30 2804 5180; www.fishbelly.de). Alongside Dolce & Gabbana, Intimo and Christian Dior lingerie are Jutte Teschner's own seriously sexy underwear designs. Little wonder it ranks as one of Playboy magazine's top 10 shops.

Things take a more bohemian turn on nearby Neue Schonhauser Strasse. Made in Berlin (19 Neue Schonhauser Strasse, tel: 49 30 2123 0601; www.kleidermarkt.de) is one of a number of classy second-hand stores. Rummage here for vintage Adidas, Burberry, Nike and Lacoste. Price is often by the kilogram. For cool cuts for men, try Respectmen (14 Neue Schonhauser Strasse, tel: 49 30 283 5010; www.respect