Oysters
If there was ever a food with a reputation for being an aphrodisiac, it's the oyster. From the outside, the bivalves look incapable of inspiring romance and lust (not always the same thing) - the shells are hard, rough and holey. But once you finally prise the oysters open - not an easy task - the meat inside, lying placidly in its shell, is succulent, salty and dripping with juices that have the aroma of clean seawater. Oysters have high levels of zinc, and this mineral is supposedly good for the libido - Casanova is reported to have eaten 50 of them every day.
When I encountered my first raw oyster, I was told to swallow it without chewing. This is ridiculous. Other than the danger of actually choking on the oyster, if you do this, you'll miss out on the wonderful, clean flavours and delicate, slippery texture of the bivalve. To experience it at its best, you should avoid eating oysters with heavy or strong sauces. Most connoisseurs eat them 'straight' or with just a few drops of fresh lemon juice.
Oysters come from many different countries and the flavour changes according to what they feed on. We no longer have to confine eating oysters to months with an 'r' in them because at all times of the year, oysters are being harvested from cold waters somewhere in the world. Although it's expensive to eat oysters in a restaurant, it's also usually the best way to taste several varieties, which allows you to determine the types you like best.
When buying raw oysters, it can be difficult to tell the quality without opening them, so buy them from vendors you trust and who have high turnover. They should be stored on ice with good drainage, preferably covered with seaweed and ice. Only the freshest oysters should be eaten raw. It's convenient to buy pre-shucked oysters (sold in jars or bags) for use in cooked preparations, but dishes will be even better made with plump, fresh oysters shucked just before cooking.
If you are in New York, try to visit the beautiful Grand Central Oyster Bar in Grand Central Station. This is based on restaurant's famous oysters pan roast: shuck oysters (six to eight per person), taking care to save the liquid (strain it through a sieve to get out the bits of shell). Heat unsalted butter in a skillet, add the oysters and cook until they start to curl at the edges. Splash in dry white wine and let it simmer, then add cream and a few drops each of Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce. Let the cream reduce over high heat, sprinkle with paprika and freshly ground black pepper, then serve with hot, crusty bread.