A mere four sheets of paper make up the thin menu at Estalagem, which means every dish the owners serve is an authentic Portuguese speciality. The restaurant, opposite the Macau Jockey Club in Taipa, was recently redecorated. Estalagem means 'inn' in Portuguese, historically a place with stables where horsemen stopped for the night. Although Estalagem is only a restaurant and not a hotel, eating there can be a delight.
It takes days to prepare a fish stew known as cataplana (275 patacas for two people) and no other restaurant in Macau serves it. The dish uses a copper steamer to retain the original taste and moisture of fresh fish. Few other restaurants serve a vertical skewer of monkfish and prawns (left; 100 patacas) that has melted butter dripping from the top, while an appetiser of mixed mushrooms (45 patacas) features a rich, creamy sauce perfect for dipping bread. For desserts, try parfait with raspberry sauce (35 patacas) or chocolate delight with almonds (32 patacas). Cafe Estalagem, Nam San Garden Block 1, Taipa. Opening hours: noon-3pm for lunch; 7pm-10.30pm for dinner. Closed Mondays; tel: (853) 821 041.