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Susan Jung

Kin's Kitchen

9 Tsing Fung Street, North Point

Tel: 2571 0913

I must admit to a slight handicap coming to Kin's Kitchen: my party  included a  vegetarian -

and a selective one at that.

There wasn't much on the  menu that could immediately accommodate my friend's dietary restrictions. So, after ordering the stir-fried dau miu  (pea shoots,  $60), we consulted  the waiter.  He suggested pomelo skin with vegetables ($150) and  steamed  egg with balsam apple juice and dried shrimp ($80) - which we had without the shrimp.

The two non-vegetarians ordered the chicken smoked with rose ($130 for half), what was described as kidney beans stuffed with minced fish ($60), and deep-fried prawns stuffed with walnuts ($28 each, minimum order of four).

Although the dau miu were  tender and sweet, they would have been better with a little more salt. The pomelo part of the second  dish was wonderful.  But it was served with baby corn, mushrooms and bamboo shoots that were so tasteless we  suspected they were canned. This was puzzling because  the chef used  quality ingredients in the rest of the meal.

The stuffed kidney beans turned out to be stuffed string beans,  split in half lengthwise, packed with fish paste and fried. The deep-fried prawns were so tempting that our vegetarian friend became - for one meal only - a seafood eater.

The balsam apple turned out  to be fu gwa   (bitter melon). The steamed egg, tinted a pretty, pale green from the bitter melon juice, was surprisingly subtle and delicate.

The highlight of the meal was the rose-smoked chicken. The  half-bird, cut in chunks and re-assembled, had an appetising, burnished brown skin, and the flavours were a lovely balance of smoke, saltiness and sweetness, with a faint spicy undertone - and the bird was perfectly cooked.

Kin's Kitchen is clean and uncluttered.   The service was helpful and accommodating. A meal for three, with tea and two soft drinks ($8 each) was $686.



Kin's Kitchen