1 Paleochora
Hippies discovered Paleochora in the 1960s, staying in the caves that dot the surrounding mountainside. Tucked away on a peninsula projecting into the Libyan Sea, the town still feels isolated. Nowadays, there is a wide range of accommodation, restaurants and even cocktail bars to choose from. Repeat visitors are drawn by the stretches of golden sand and low-key village atmosphere. Paleochora is warmer and drier than the rest of Crete and spring begins early. Wild flowers bloom and laid-back locals have time to teach Greek phrases to tongue-tied tourists. The town is closed to traffic at night and as residents begin their volta, or pre-dinner stroll, taverna owners start placing chairs and tables on the streets.
2 Samaria Gorge
The 16km-long Samaria Gorge is one of Europe's longest. The walk from end to end is a strenuous six-hour hike through two million years of geological history, with sheer cliffs rising to 600 metres on both sides. Frequent mountain views make all the hard work worthwhile. The icy water in the streams is pure enough to drink - refilling your water bottles en route is vital, especially during the blistering summer months. The ruins of the village of Samaria, 7km inside the gorge, crumble in the heat; the inhabitants were relocated in 1962 when the area was proclaimed a national park. During the final stage of the hike the walls close in and you can almost touch both sides of the gorge at once. The beachside settlement of Agia Roumeli, at the foot of the gorge, marks the end of the trail. Clear the dust with a beer and a cooling dip in the sea. Go to
www.samaria.west-crete.com.
3 Loutro
The ferry from Agia Roumeli chugs along the south coast to Sfakia, where connecting buses are on hand to whisk tired hikers back to their resorts. But first the ferry makes a stop at Loutro, a pretty village with a modest pebble beach. While many destinations sell themselves on what they offer visitors, Loutro boasts about what it lacks. There are no roads, so no traffic. No discos, so no loud music. Hiking in the vicinity is challenging - the 40-minute walk to Sweetwater Beach is a favourite. The Hotel Porto Loutro (
www.hotelportoloutro.com) offers simple, clean rooms with private balconies and sea views.