In neither leftie Islington nor the 'Little Italy' of Clerkenwell, Exmouth Market was long known as a fruit'n'veg, pots'n'dishcloth market, its ironmongers, bookies and enormous pubs serving the staff of London's main Royal Mail sorting office, Mount Pleasant, one of the world's largest.
Not any more. This 300-metre pedestrian thoroughfare is now home to 30 restaurants, with Greek, Indian, Turkish, North African, Italian, modern and traditional British, Iberian, American, Thai and Caribbean cuisines all represented.
Moro
The genesis of the manor's renaissance, this light, spacious restaurant has served award-winning fare in understated swishness since 1997.
The food hints at North Africa, with starters such as calves' kidneys with morel mushrooms, peppers and yoghurt (#6.50 or about $97), or charcoal-grilled quail breast in vine leaves with orange and wheatberry salad (#6).