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Historic Longgang, happy haunt of the Hakka

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A visit to homes that look like forts and castles becomes extra memorable on a misty, atmospheric day in spring

Longgang district, in Shenzhen, is a lot more than beautiful beaches and seaside fare. In sharp contrast to the glitz and glitter associated with China's newest city, Longgang is a treasure trove of the venerable, the ancient and the edifying.

Early spring is an especially atmospheric time to go around viewing Longgang's historical and cultural features. Fog, dark skies and rain pattering on cobblestone streets give the scene an extraordinary air of ancient realism.

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The easiest point of cultural interest to reach is the Longgang Hakka Custom Museum . The venue should be of special interest to anyone interested in Hakka culture or mid-Qing dynasty (1644-1911) architecture.

The Hakka were a nomadic people who settled widely around southern China and Taiwan, and their architecture is unique to their way of life. They built courtyard homes within an exterior wall that virtually transformed the premises into a large fort (or castle), complete with vertical arrow slits in the walls. The Hakka people of olden times were subject to persecution, but they made sure they lived in safe, well-fortified homes. Inside each enclosure, you will find a large number of old Hakka residences.

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It is a quiet museum on most days. Once you pass the ticket booth, you are largely on your own and free to stroll around the grounds and explore the inside of the residences, many of which appear to have been left in their natural state. Those interested in antiques will be pleased to find the homes filled with Qing-era furniture and tools. Feel free to take photographs, but please do not touch.

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