Shop to shore
THE DOWNTURN IN the fur industry in the late 1980s and early 90s was the impetus that led to the creation of one of fashion's quirkiest labels. Milan-based Marni may not be a high-profile label, but Spanish designer Consuelo Castiglioni consistently wins accolades from fashion editors for her eclectic boho style. She's also got a loyal following of women, from London to Tokyo, who love the offbeat mix of colours and textures the brand is famous for. Among its celebrity aficionados are Julia Roberts, Reese Witherspoon, Ashley Judd, Kirsten Dunst and British Vogue fashion director Lucinda Chambers.
Marni grew out of fur company Giwi Furs, owned by Castiglioni's husband, Gianni. 'We started Marni a decade ago,' she says. 'That was the worst period for fur - people weren't buying much and its image was very old fashioned, so we thought we'd try to do something modern and new with it.'
They started the range with a few women's pieces using fur and leather, and then expanded to offer a more comprehensive winter collection. From there, the label (named after Castiglioni's sister-in-law) has grown steadily. It introduced bags and shoes, and then, three seasons ago, launched a menswear. Castiglioni looks after the creative side, while her husband runs the business operations. She doesn't have any formal fashion training, but says she's 'always loved clothes'.
She comes across rather as the brand does: not 'in your face', no big and bold statements, no dramatic gestures. Dark and petite, she has a quiet manner (although having arrived on an overnight flight from Europe just a few hours beforehand may have something to do with her subdued demeanour). Yet she's obviously passionate about the clothes and accessories she designs, and her personal style has clearly been developed into the brand. She's wearing a bit of this, a bit of that, a touch of hippy jewellery, but a lady-like skirt, all with a strong but not overwhelming sense of colour.
The Castiglionis are in Hong Kong for the opening of their first store: a large space in the Landmark, with the brand's trademark decor of undulating and curving stainless steel hanging rails and islands of clothes.
Marni has been progressively setting up shop around the world. 'Marni doesn't advertise,' says Castiglioni. 'We invest in shops instead. This is our way of showing what the collection is about. We opened the first in London in 2000. That was where Marni was most appreciated and understood. Up to that point it had been sold in Joseph [a boutique chain].'
Marni opened a store in Milan in the same year, followed by Paris, New York, Tokyo and Kobe, then Kuwait City in 2002, Dubai and Singapore in 2003 and Los Angeles and Rome last year. Marni is also available in Shanghai, and the company is keen to find more locations on the mainland.
The late arrival in Hong Kong of a Marni boutique is more a reflection of taking time to find the right space than Hongkongers' lack of interest. On the contrary, the brand is popular here, especially among local celebrities such as Gigi Lai Chi, Rosamund Kwan, Shirley Cheung Yuk-shan and Carina Lau Ka-ling.
Castiglioni thinks that Hong Kong women are in tune with her philosophy. 'They like to feel very feminine, but with that they want a bit of fun,' she says.
The essence of Marni is about mixing textures, materials, prints and colours. So, straw, burlap, rope and towelling appear alongside silk, cotton, chiffon and jersey. There's almost no black, but brown and pale neutral tones are often used to offset strong colour. Castiglioni's palettes vary according to her mood for the season. They can be muted pastels or bright, acid-drop or jewel tones. The result is a look that's fresh and feminine.
Castiglioni says that fabric is her starting point for each season. She has a creative team of five, who collaborate on the entire collection. A total of 60 people work in the company, and the pattern cutting for prototypes is carried out in-house. 'Other production is done in small workshops exclusively for us,' she says. 'We're lucky in Italy. We have many good people with the necessary skills. There's also a big advantage of being in Milan close to the fabric companies. If we want to try something different, they're ready to experiment and they get quite involved in the whole process.'
Comme des Garcon's Rei Kawakubo is one of the designers she most admires. 'He has a completely different look to me, but there is incredible talent there,' she says. 'I love Japanese fashion design because it goes beyond fashion into a kind of art. I love Junya Watanabe's work.'
Marni's spring/summer collection is a kaleidoscope of form and material, featuring bright colours and natural textures, fantasy prints and geometric patterns. There's a curvaceous look to the clothes, with gathered necklines, bunched waists, empire lines and plenty of volume. 'Proportions are important,' says Castiglioni. 'I like to find a different silhouette, and the high waist is more flattering. It will appear in the fall/winter collection, too.
'The menswear is all texture, with some graphic prints and florals, but it's more about fabrics and colours,' she says.
Detailing and finishing are also an important part of the label, and for men and women that includes rope belts this season. Footwear for women include clogs, wedges and flat leather sandals.
Castiglioni's plans include continued expansion of the retail network, but she says she's most excited about developing a Marni fragrance. 'I'd also like to do home furnishing, but that's a whole different world,' she says. 'We already do some cushions, and through the Rug Company we have our own rugs in London.'
With her penchant for prints, it's not surprising that she says she'd love to design Marni wallpaper. And given her predilection for texture, it would probably be as beautiful to touch as to look at.
Marni, Shop 214, the Landmark, Central. Inquiries: 2845 7632
