2/F Onfem Tower 29 Wyndham Street, Lan Kwai Fong Tel: 2525 1681 Open: noon-late Cuisine French. Ambience Don't come here expecting the sound system to be playing Edith Piaf or accordion music, or the furnishings to be Louis XIV with lots of gilt, swags and fleur-de-lys. The decor isn't what we think of as traditional French - it's much more modern. Tables are spacious and if you sit by the window, the cityscape outside is great. Price More than $500 per person for a three-course dinner without wine. Pros Unfussy French food that's not too heavy, served in a modern, comfortable setting. Cons Wine prices are high and, if you want something by the glass, you might consider the prices outrageous (even compared with standard restaurant wine pricings): $160 for a glass of Veuve Clicquot yellow label or $750 for a bottle. A red or white Vins de Pays d'Oc is $55 for a glass and $250 for a bottle. Recommended dishes Starters are lovely. The medallions of foie gras with brioche ($148) have preserved ginger and pear compote to balance the richness of the liver. Tuna tartare and crab ($125 - left) has the crisp acidity of lime juice to refresh the palate. Confit of duck leg with grandmother's mashed potatoes ($205) has tender, melting meat, and everybody's grandmother should make mashed potatoes this good. We also enjoy the marinated and grilled lamb chops ($198), but the leek and cream gnocchi are far too heavy. The chocolate chaud-froid (hot-cold) is a good version of this popular dessert, but the frozen lime parfait ($58) wasn't nearly cold enough. What else? They were out of the only by-the-glass red that we were interested in trying: the Abrate Barbera d'Alba 1998 ($58 a glass, $250 a bottle). The only other choices were the Vins de Pays - so we decided to go without. The music level became higher towards the end of the evening and it was difficult to carry on a conversation in normal voices.
