1 The funicular railway
The city centre of the Croatian capital is divided into two: the medieval Gorni Grad (upper town) and baroque Donji Grad (lower town). To get from one to the other you can ride what may be the world's shortest funicular railway. The line was built in 1891, with the lower station on Ilica, Zagreb's main shopping street; the upper station is next to the Lotr{scaron}eak Tower. The ride costs three kuna ($4) and at the top you can climb the tower for a bird's-eye view of the city.
2 The farmers' market
Dolac market, just north of the city's main square, is open every morning and is a feast for the senses. Whatever fruits and vegetables are in season in the surrounding countryside are on sale here, heaped in colourful pyramids on stallholders' trestle tables, along with flowers, cheeses, honey and other goodies. Cafes patronised by market workers and buyers surround the market. The indoor section under the square is home to meat, dairy products and other grocery items. Go before midday to sample the atmosphere at its best.
3 Ride a tram
They may not be as quaint as Hong Kong's double-decker trams, but Zagreb's single-decker 'bendy' trams form part of a comprehensive network that provides an excellent way to get around the city. Buy books of tickets at street kiosks, but in true European style don't forget to get your ticket machine-stamped once aboard - failure to do so is the same as riding ticketless. The Lonely Planet guide warns you that the trams are crowded, but any Hong Kong native who has battled their way through a local tram at rush- hour will find most Zagreb trams tame by comparison.