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Paul Moon

Paul Mooney

There is history for the eyes to feast on in this part of China

The capital of Hubei province, Wuhan is actually a combination of three -

cities ? Wuchang, Hanyang and -Hankou ? which grew on the banks of the Yangtze River and its largest tributary, the Han River. Wuchang, the oldest of the three cities, was the capital of the state of Wu during the Three Kingdoms period (220-265). Hankou, once a small fishing village, has been Wuhan?s main commercial area since the 1860s when it became a treaty port as part of the Treaty of Nanjing, which ended the Opium Wars. At that time foreign concessions stretched for 3km along the Yangtze. The smallest of the three cities, Hanyang, dates back 1,300 years and was once a walled city. It became an industrial base in the 20th century.

Wuhan is a large city so you should arrange your sightseeing by area. A convenient way to tour Wuhan is via the Huachang Tour Line: public buses 401 and 402 pass by the major scenic spots. A single-day ticket is just 5 yuan. (027) 8366 7926

HANYANG

Ancient Lute Pavilion

2 Qintai Road, Hanyang

(027) 8483 4187

Also known as Boya Terrace, the Ancient Lute Pavilion is located to the west of Tortoise Hill along the banks of Yuehu Lake. This is the site of a famous incident concerning Yu Boya, an ancient musician of the Spring and Autumn Period (770-475 BC). While on a trip to Hanyang, Yu played his lute on this spot, but it was only Zhong Ziqi who understood his music. The two immediately became friends and arranged to meet the same time the next year. However, when Yu returned he learned that his friend had passed away. Yu played a farewell song at his friend?s grave and vowed never to play it again, smashing his instrument into pieces. The story is the source for a Chinese expression, zhiyin, or to ?understand sound?, which is used to describe a friend who intuitively understands one?s inner feelings. First built in the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127 AD), the pavilion has been ruined and rebuilt several times over the years. Today it is a modest complex of courtyards, pavilions and gardens. The tranquil site serves as a popular gathering place for Chinese opera aficionados who come here to play music and sing, as well as for practitioners of various martial arts.

Qingchuan Pavilion

86 Ximachang Street, Hanyang

(027) 8471 4805

This pavilion offers excellent views of the river from its perch on the north bank of the Yangtze, facing Yellow Crane Tower. It was first built during the Ming Dynasty  in memory of Lord Yu, who was famed for fighting floods. The current structure was rebuilt in 1983. There is a pleasant riverside walkway beneath the complex.

Guiyuan Zen Temple

20 Cuiwei Henglu, Hanyang

(027) 8484 2298

This is one of the four largest Zen temples in Hubei province. First built in 1658 on this spot, the complex now includes drum and bell towers, Luohan Hall and Lotus Pond. Luohan Hall houses 500 carved and gilded statues of luohan, or Buddhist disciples. The life-size gold statues, among which no two faces are the same, are considered works of high craftsmanship. The statues strike a wide variety of poses and many hold symbolic objects in their hands. In the main hall is a statue of Sakyamuni Buddha that was carved from a single block of white jade. It was a gift from Myanmar, then Burma, in 1935. A new addition to the temple is the double-sided 18.8 metre statue of Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy. The temple was once a centre for the study of Chan, or Zen, Buddhist scriptures, attracting monks from nearby provinces. Its collection includes the valuable 7,000-volume Longcan Sutra. If you are here at lunch or dinner, try the temple?s vegetarian restaurant.

HANKOU

Hankou?s main tourist sites are located along the riverside, an area that was once home to foreign concessions. Many beautiful European structures, dating to the early 1900s, still grace the area beside the newer high-rise buildings. The Riverside Promenade was rebuilt several years ago and offers a pleasant place to stroll.

Wuhan Museum

3 Qingnian Lu, Hankou

(027) 8587 0278

The Wuhan Museum presents the city?s history, from ancient times to today. The museum has three floors and nine exhibition halls, displaying cultural relics such as pottery, porcelain and paintings.

Other Sites in Hankou:

Hanzheng Shopping Street

Jianghan Road Pedestrian Mall

Jiqing Street

WUCHANG

Yellow Crane Tower

1 Snake Hill, Xishan, Wuchang

(027) 8887 4917

The symbol of Wuhan, Yellow Crane Tower stands on Snake Hill on the southern bank of the Yangtze River. Throughout history Chinese poets and writers have climbed the tower?s steps to write poetry and prose in praise of the surrounding scenery. The five-storey tower, which stands 51.4 metres tall, offers excellent views of the city, the Yangtze River and the Changjiang Bridge. First built in 223, Yellow Crane Tower was originally located a short distance away from its present site, on the bank of the Yangtze; a carving in the base of the Changjiang Bridge marks the spot. The complex has been rebuilt many times, most recently in 1986. Models from earlier dynasties can be found on the third floor. The complex also has a white stupa dating to the Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368).

Changchun Taoist Temple

145 Wuluo Road, Wuchang

(027) 8886 1816

This is one of the 10 holiest Taoist sites in China, and the best-preserved Taoist temple in the city. The temple was originally built in the early Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), in memory of Qiu Changchun, the founder of the Quanzhen sect of Taoism. The complex, which offers typical Taoist flavour, has many corridors and grand eaves and arches. It also now houses a large number of Taoist relics.

Wuhan University

Luojia Hill,

(27) 8768 2209

Established in 1913 at the foot of Luojiashan near East Lake, Wuhan University is considered one of the best institutions of higher learning in China. The campus offers many examples of old architecture.

Baotong Zen Temple

289 Wuluo Road, Wuchang

(027) 8788 4539

The oldest temple in Wuhan, Baotong Zen Temple is also known as the Dongshan Temple, or the Amitabha Temple. It was built between 420 and 479, but was damaged several times and rebuilt on the ruins. The current structure was rebuilt from 1875 to 1909. Long famous for its loud bells, Baotong Temple has two large iron bells made during the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279). There is also a pair of stone lions carved in the early years of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644).

Hubei Provincial Museum

188 East Lake Road, Wuchang

(027) 8679 4127

Located on East Lake, the Hubei Provincial Museum boasts a collection of more than 200,000 artefacts excavated from all over the province, including an interesting display of relics from the tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng dating to the Warring States Period (480-221 BC). The collection includes ritual vessels, chariot fittings, weapons, bronzes, lacquer ware, gold, jade, and musical instruments. There is even what is probably the world?s first wine cooler. Most notable is the Marquis?s magnificent coffin, with its inner and outer casings decorated with early Zhou designs. In addition, another 22 sacrificial coffins were discovered at the burial site. Most hold the remains of women believed to have been buried alive to accompany the Marquis in the afterlife. The large coffin containers have small openings to allow the spirits to move about freely. Also of interest is the set of 65 chime bells excavated from the tomb. Buried for nearly 2,400 years, the chimes still play beautifully. A replica of these bells has been made and concerts of ancient music are staged several times a day at the museum.

Zhongshan Warship

Baishazhou, Wuchang

(027) 8811 7310

The Yongfeng Warship was built for the Qing government by the Japanese in 1910. It was later used by the Nationalist navy, and named after Sun Yat-sen (Zhongshan). The ship was destroyed while trying to protect Wuhan during a Japanese bombing raid in 1938. In 1997, workers successfully salvaged the Zhongshan from the Yangtze River. The ship has been refurbished and is now a museum.

Red House

[Memorial Hall of the Wuchang Uprising of the 1911 Revolution]

Yuemachang, Wuchang

(027) 8887 5306

The first uprising against Manchu imperial rule started in Wuchang in 1911, eventually leading to the establishment of the Republic of China and giving Wuchang a prominent place in modern Chinese history. On October 10, 1911, Hubei revolutionaries under the direction of Sun Yat-sen were forced to prematurely launch the Wuchang Uprising when a bomb exploded ahead of schedule. The next day the Hubei Military Government of the Republic of China established its office here, declaring an end to Manchu rule. The Red House complex, a two-storey red-brick building, and a new adjoining structure house relics from the period and a large collection of historical photos. A bronze statue of Sun Yat-sen, the father of modern China, stands in a square at the entrance to the complex. There are few English explanations for the exhibits.

Other sites in Wuchang:

East Lake



Three kingdoms