Greek islands

Greece's signature blues and whites seem especially intense on the island of Amorgos. The crystal waters and clarity of light convinced Luc Besson to film The Big Blue here. The capital, Chora, remains one of the most traditional villages in the region, where Byzantine churches, whitewashed buildings and rows of windmills evoke quintessential Greece. Narrow streets lead to small squares of cafes where old-timers doze. Nearby, the Monastery of Hozoviotissa clings precariously to a precipice 300 metres above the sea. Aegiali is as touristy as Amorgos gets. There's a good selection of rooms, bars and restaurants to choose from, although the resort feels far from oppressive. Join diners at Taverna Nikos for a bowl of kakavia (fish soup) and a glass of rakomelo (raki with honey and cinnamon). The Aegialis Hotel is five minutes from the beach (www.amorgos-aegialis.com).

With a population of 500 and barely enough room to swing a squid, Folegandros plays it low key and leaves mass tourism to Mykonos. To get a feeling for your surroundings take one of the boat tours around the island. From the photogenic cluster of cube-shaped houses in the clifftop capital to the beach town of Angali, there's plenty to explore. Nudists make for Agios Nikolaos beach, while, in Ano Meria, life has changed little over the centuries. In July every- one gathers for the annual Folegandros Festival - a series of concerts and feasts. Avoid the 12-hour haul from Athens by flying to neighbouring Santorini and linking up by ferry. A stay at the Vrahos Hotel (www.hotel-vrahos.gr) comes with an excellent beachfront location.

Nearer Turkey than the Greek mainland and with patchy ferry connections, Samothraki is a bit of a trek. It's worth the effort, however, particularly during peak months when popular hot spots elsewhere are overrun. It's a rugged isle of craggy peaks including Mount Fengari, which, at 1,611 metres, is the highest in the Aegean and from where, according to Homer, Poseidon watched the Trojan War. Walkers have trails through forested valleys all to themselves. Lakes, rivers and waterfalls offer the chance to cool off, while the mineral-rich thermal springs at Loutra have been attracting bathers since Roman times. Set in a canyon between Mount Fengari and the sea, the Sanctuary of the Great Gods is an ancient site of pagan worship dating from the third century BC. The Kastro Hotel offers discounts for hiking groups (www.kastrohotel.gr).