St Kilda
For decades it was Melbourne's seediest neighbourhood-on-sea, but nowadays St Kilda showcases some of the most unusual bohemian and small-label designer products in Victoria - side by side with a fair dollop of tourist kitsch.
Contrasts abound in this period of gentrification. Dollhouse (23 Carlisle Street, tel: 61 3 9525 3520) hosts up-and-coming Australian fashion designers that might not get into boutiques in other parts of the country. The small shop stocks womenswear and accessories from Victoria, South and Western Australia, including ceramic earrings and broaches depicting traditional European tea sets (A$20), and boldly printed and embroidered Method label T-shirts (A$110). A few doors away, a more permanent memento can be had at Voodoo (27 Carlisle Street, tel: 61 3 9593 9066), which specialises in gothic tattoos and body piercing.
On the edge of St Kilda's northwest periphery is Eclectic (155 Chapel Street, tel: 61 3 9534 1920), which sells new and second-hand records, CDs and music-related paraphernalia from posters to toys.
Back in the thick of things, between Acland Street's bakeries and cafes is a variety of cool vendors. Home & Co (132 Acland Street, tel: 61 3 9534 1244) has a striking range of Australian home accessories, stylish toys and designer babywear, while Origen (72 Acland Street, tel: 61 3 9593 6566) displays Southeast Asian and South American silver jewellery and clothing in handmade fabrics. Follow the scent of incense to one of St Kilda's original hippie outfitters, Chakra (179 Acland Street, tel: 61 3 9521 6322), where Buddhist and Hindu figurines abound and clothing, bags and cushions range from Indonesian batik to Indian mirror and embroidery combos.
At the end of the day, catch a live band at the raucous Esplanade Hotel (11 Upper Esplanade, tel:
61 3 9534 0211) or watch the sun set behind the many masts moored at the Royal Melbourne Yacht Squadron from the more sedate
St Moritz Bar at a table on the terrace of Novotel St Kilda (16 The Esplanade, tel: 61 3 9525 5678).