A good roast rack of lamb is moist, sweet and succulent, and variations for flavouring the meat are limited only by the cook's imagination. Pinot noir is a good match with lamb, provided that the seasonings are complementary. Vosne Romanee 1er Cru, Les Charmes (pinot noir) 1995, Robert Arnoux, Burgundy, France There are only a few modern craftsmen of Vosne Romanee. In Burgundy the large companies homogenise and neutralise regional characteristics, while the many ridiculously small producers are at the annual mercy of the elements, which affect quality and quantity in their tiny vineyards. Arnoux isn't new to the world of wine, but it's taken a savvy importer to bring it to Hong Kong, despite the substantial price tag. Spend $400 and you can get drinkable Bordeaux or smart Rhone, but Burgundy at that price isn't really worth drinking. Try this superlative 1995 single-vineyard pinot noir with spring rack of lamb that's been gently and slowly poached in heavy meat stock and served with a thinly sliced truffle or two. Thick Chinese congee will go a long way to soak up the rest of the wine and extend the lamb and truffle combination. Available for $1,050 from Altaya Wines (tel: 2523 1945) Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2003, Marlborough, New Zealand Cynics who haven't tried this pinot noir will accuse it of trading on the famed Cloudy Bay parentage. Those who have been mesmerised by it will know that it's one of those undervalued wines, probably funded by its more expensive sauvignon blanc brother. There are many Burgundy clones that are grown to match specific vineyards. This wine offers complex fruit. Try this Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir with lamb rack crusted with blanched almonds and cumin. Available for $398 from Riche Monde (tel: 2976 1888) Inniskillin Gold Oak Aged Vidal Ice wine 2002 'Carbo-glace' are wines made from grapes frozen in a freezer. By law, ice wines from Germany, Canada and Austria must be harvested on the vine (at minus seven degrees Celsius in the vineyard). Although both methods get the big freeze, the grapes gain intricate flavour if they continue to grow in the vineyards. Vidal is a Canadian speciality hybrid grape that's robust and hearty. This ice wine is fermented in French oak for added classy flavours. Unconventional as it might be, try Inniskillin Vidal ice wine with lamb rack made with tandoori spices. The ice wine will contrast with the Indian flavours and match the gamey sweetness of the young lamb. Available for $799 from Sinolink (tel: 2408 9338) simon@iwinecentre.com
