A good roast rack of lamb is moist, sweet and succulent, and variations for flavouring the meat are limited only by the cook's imagination. Pinot noir is a good match with lamb, provided that the seasonings are complementary.
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru,
Les Charmes (pinot noir) 1995, Robert Arnoux,
Burgundy, France
There are only a few modern craftsmen of Vosne Romanee. In Burgundy the large companies homogenise and neutralise regional characteristics, while the many ridiculously small producers are at the annual mercy of the elements, which affect quality and quantity in their tiny vineyards. Arnoux isn't new to the world of wine, but it's taken a savvy importer to bring it to Hong Kong, despite the substantial price tag. Spend $400 and you can get drinkable Bordeaux or smart Rhone, but Burgundy at that price isn't really worth drinking. Try this superlative 1995 single-vineyard pinot noir with spring rack of lamb that's been gently and slowly poached in heavy meat stock and served with a thinly sliced truffle or two. Thick Chinese congee will go a long way to soak up the rest of the wine and extend the lamb and truffle combination.
Available for $1,050
from Altaya Wines (tel: 2523 1945)