Shop 1002, 10/F Times Square, 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay Tel: 2506 2525 Open: 11.45am-3pm, 5.45pm-11pm Cuisine: Beijing, Sichuan and Shanghainese. Ambience: Two terracotta warriors stand guard outside the entrance. Inside is a spacious dining area with high ceilings, furnished in simple wood. The restaurant is lined with booths on one side and filled with small tables throughout. It's a popular place with office workers and families. Price: Although it's in the Food Forum of Times Square, which is filled with expensive restaurants, a meal at Modern China costs less than $100 per person without wine. Pros: Delicious food with reasonable prices. Cons: There's always a crowd waiting outside whether it's a weekday or weekend. To avoid the long queue, call a few days in advance for a reservation or get there before 6.15pm. Recommended dishes: Sweet and sour boneless mandarin fish ($88, above) is a colourful work of art. The deep-fried fish is sprinkled with beans, corn and an appetising sweet and sour sauce. Almost every table orders the xiao long bao steamed buns ($23 for eight pieces, right). The buns have delicate skins enclosing meat with hot soup stock that adds a sensual feeling when eaten. A popular street food in northern China is the green onion pancake ($40). Stuffed with plenty of green and spring onions, the pancake is delicious when eaten hot. We also liked the sauteed egg white and milk ($48). For dessert, try the deep-fried souffle ball with mashed red bean and banana ($8 each). What else? The restaurant has another branch in Olympian City.