Bei fung tong is the Chinese name for the Causeway Bay typhoon boat shelter, one of Hong Kong's oldest tourist attractions. In the glory days of the 1960s, 70s and early 80s, the whole area would light up with floating sampan dai pai dong. 'Bei fung tong' seafood is deep fried to seal in the sweet juices then stir-fried with a copious amount of aromatics such as garlic, ginger, spring onion and chillies. The cooking style is deliciously oily and robust in flavour. The ideal wine needs to have freshness, rich flavours and a splash of acidity. Sauvignon Blanc 2003, Pascal Jolivet Attitude 2003, France Pascal Jolivet is shaking things up in his native Pouilly Fume. He's one of the first winemakers to modernise the French wine label. His 'Attitude' sauvignon blanc is French in origin, but New World in approach. It's filled with tropical fruit. The wine is pure, with some mineral notes. Its zingy acidity cuts excessive oiliness while at the same time lifting the fresh succulence of the seafood. The pure and vibrant sauvignon blanc fruitiness adds liveliness and offsets some of the chilli spice. Available for $160 from Montrose (tel: 2555 8877) Pinot Gris 2002, Quartz Reef, New Zealand Pinot gris has been around for a long time, but under the Italian name of pinot grigio. This New Zealand version has nothing to do with the insipid Italian staple that has long dominated the Hong Kong Italian restaurant scene. The Quartz Reef is made from grapes grown in the cold Otago area. It has plenty of growing time to accumulate succulent, exotic fruit flavours. The wine is rich and tough enough to go with fried garlic and spring onions, yet won't clash with seafood. Serve it chilled, and savour the lychee-like flavours. Available for $268 from Watson's (tel: 2147 3641) Rose Champagne 1995, Moet & Chandon, France Rose champagne is the only wine style in Europe for which the blending of finished red and white wines is legal (and indispensable for the style). On average, about 4 to 8 per cent of red wines made from pinot noir or pinot meunier are added to white wine. This gives just enough colour and flavour to the blend. In years gone by, winemakers would blend to the specific colour of the house, making it possible to correlate the colour with the brand. Today, blending is done in black glasses and the emphasis is on flavour and complexity. This stylish rose comes from the strongly flavoured 1995 vintage. It has plenty of creaminess and some red fruit characters. The delicate balance between age, acidity and fruit flavours is finely tuned and enhances a range of savoury flavours. Also try it with steamed scallops with garlic and mung bean noodles. Available for $700 from Riche Monde (tel: 2976 1888) simon@iwinecentre.com
