A steak is most tender when it comes from a little-exercised part of the animal, such as the ribs or the fillets on either side of the spine. However, most of the meat's flavour comes from fat within the muscle.
To get a steak that's both tender and flavourful, the sides of cattle are aged, which breaks down the meat fibres. Dry-ageing the meat gives the best results as the flavours are intensified as the result of dehydrating the meat and the oxidation of iron.
Raw meat is full of uncoagulated proteins which are hardened by cooking. Although most people think of red wines when trying to decide what to serve with steak, this traditional pairing isn't the only option. Tannins in red wine bind with uncoagulated proteins in a rare steak (or raw, as in steak tartare), and make the wine softer. For reds, choose intensely fruity wines because wood tannins in full-bodied wines distract from the flavour and texture of a good steak. But if an assertive wine is served with a well-done steak, where tannins have no 'free' proteins to combine with, the wine will taste drier than it really is. A white wine is the better choice with this.
Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, Moreson, Coastal Region, South Africa
This South African cabernet is unusually stylish and elegant. It has benefited from afternoon sea breezes during the growing season, which helps the grape accumulate flavour and retain acid. The ripe, flavourful fruit is handled with respect so the fruitiness is enhanced rather than smothered by oak. It takes about 30 minutes after opening the bottle for this wine to blossom with fragrant fruit and cigar-like aromas and tastes. It is a medium-dry wine and is well balanced with plenty of the flavour of the cabernet fruit. It is mellow and silky now, but can age for another five years. Try this wine with medium-rare steak and white truffle butter.
Available for $248 from Sheppard Brothers Limited (tel: 2542 0081)
Hermitage Blanc (Marsanne/Rousanne) 2001, Paul Jaboulet