A steak is most tender when it comes from a little-exercised part of the animal, such as the ribs or the fillets on either side of the spine. However, most of the meat's flavour comes from fat within the muscle. To get a steak that's both tender and flavourful, the sides of cattle are aged, which breaks down the meat fibres. Dry-ageing the meat gives the best results as the flavours are intensified as the result of dehydrating the meat and the oxidation of iron. Raw meat is full of uncoagulated proteins which are hardened by cooking. Although most people think of red wines when trying to decide what to serve with steak, this traditional pairing isn't the only option. Tannins in red wine bind with uncoagulated proteins in a rare steak (or raw, as in steak tartare), and make the wine softer. For reds, choose intensely fruity wines because wood tannins in full-bodied wines distract from the flavour and texture of a good steak. But if an assertive wine is served with a well-done steak, where tannins have no 'free' proteins to combine with, the wine will taste drier than it really is. A white wine is the better choice with this. Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, Moreson, Coastal Region, South Africa This South African cabernet is unusually stylish and elegant. It has benefited from afternoon sea breezes during the growing season, which helps the grape accumulate flavour and retain acid. The ripe, flavourful fruit is handled with respect so the fruitiness is enhanced rather than smothered by oak. It takes about 30 minutes after opening the bottle for this wine to blossom with fragrant fruit and cigar-like aromas and tastes. It is a medium-dry wine and is well balanced with plenty of the flavour of the cabernet fruit. It is mellow and silky now, but can age for another five years. Try this wine with medium-rare steak and white truffle butter. Available for $248 from Sheppard Brothers Limited (tel: 2542 0081) Hermitage Blanc (Marsanne/Rousanne) 2001, Paul Jaboulet Le Chevalier de Sterimberg, Rhone, France This classic and creamy Rhone Valley white has for a long time been overshadowed by another Rhone Valley white, Condrieu. Hermitage Blanc is made primarily from two little-know white grapes, Marsanne and Rousanne. This Hermitage Blanc is light yellow in colour with honeysuckle and jasmine perfumes. The palate is lush with pleasing creamy texture, almost chardonnay-like. When chilled, the exotic flavours and lubricating texture of the wine lend themselves to poached veal saddle and other fully coagulated meat proteins. Also try this wine with pieces of crumbly parmesan cheese. You'll find it's completely seductive. Available for $600 from Remy (tel: 2523 5904) Merlot 2001, Hahn Estates, Monterey County, California Merlot's reputed softness is ill-founded. The grape is capable of being just as dry as cabernet, but we don't notice merlot in the same way. This Hahn Merlot is perfect with an aged steak. It has lots of dark berry fruit supported by nutmeggy oak and vanilla. It is full-bodied and smooth. The fruit richness will match the intensity of aged steak flavours, while there are plenty of balanced tannins to refresh the palate. Try it with aged steak and classic mushroom sauce. Available for $185 from Golden Gate Wine (tel: 2891 8121)
