Season: fresh anchovies are hard to find but cured anchovies (in cans or jars) are available year-round.
Types: they're either oil- or salt-cured. The salt-cured are supposed to be superior but many people prefer the easier-to-use anchovies in oil. Salt-cured anchovies are sold whole and the skeleton and tiny bones have to be removed before using the fillets.
It's a tedious process that will leave your hands and cutting board smelling fishy. Anchovies in oil are usually sold as fillets so only have to be drained before using.
How to choose: anchovies in oil are much easier to find than the salt-cured ones. Those preserved in olive oil are preferred. The ingredients list on the can or jar should contain only anchovies, salt and oil.
What else? If you want to tone down the pungent taste of anchovies, soak them in milk. If you want to remove the anchovy smell from your fingers, rub your hands with fresh lemon juice, then rinse. Many people who are revolted by the sight of anchovy fillets on pizza don't even notice them when they're blended into the sauce and are used sparingly. Unless your guests are vegetarian or have allergies that prevent them eating fish, don't tell them which dishes contain anchovies - just use them subtly.
How to use: in Caesar salad, of course. Mind you, so many people ask for their Caesar without anchovies that chefs frequently leave them out of the dressing and instead drape the fish across the top of the salad. Those who like the taste of anchovies feel the dressing is bland and flavourless without them, and would prefer them mixed in. Anchovy-lovers will love bagna cauda but their use in tapenade (see recipe, left) is more subtle. Another good way to hide the anchovies is in salsa verde, which is a rough puree of parsley, garlic, anchovies, capers, lemon juice and lemon zest. Although it sounds odd, add an anchovy fillet (or two) the next time you make chicken liver pate - the fishy flavour won't be noticeable. Anchovies are an essential part of Nicoise salad, which is composed of boiled potatoes, poached or hard-boiled eggs, string beans, olives, tomatoes and tuna (traditionally canned tuna, but it's even better with seared fresh tuna).